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Cassette deck part and how do I fix it?


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#1 dan

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Posted 18 April 2019 - 12:22 AM

got my belts today so i decided to put them in. while i was in there, i noticed a plastic part had a crack.

 

Attached File  20190417_231746.jpg   63.64K   2 downloads

 

 

 

the cassette plays, pause and stops fine but the FF and RW don't work. i noticed these parts fell out:

 

what do i do now?

Attached File  20190418_021229.jpg   61.94K   2 downloads



#2 docs

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Posted 18 April 2019 - 02:23 AM

You need the service manual to check exploded diagram for locations...

#3 dan

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Posted 18 April 2019 - 05:18 AM

I managed to put it back together but if I try to ff or rw, that cracked plastic piece pops out and jambs against the flywheel. I wonder if i can use jb weld plastic weld to glue it? Should I glue only in the crack and clamp it or should I glue the top flat surface? Does that top flat surface on the plastic piece ever have to come in contact with anything?

#4 BoomboxLover48

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Posted 18 April 2019 - 09:31 AM

I think that is the clutch assembly on the contact wheel for FF and RW!

A vital part in the transport mechanism.

You will be able to fix it or get a part.

 

That  top white plastic lock got hardened, broke off with a split crack, and fell off. That plastic ring washer lock keeps the spring in place and function as a clutch mechanism. I think the other end of this contact wheel  making contact with another contact wheel,  engage with the tape supply reel axle for rewind, and take up axle for FF. 

 

Inner surface of it got a channel to keep the spring in position. You might need the exact part from another M70 deck. 

Our members here might have that part. It is a friction fit part. Once you push it in place, it will seat there.

 

There is a felt washer inside and which gives friction to the clutch mechanism.

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#5 BoomboxLover48

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Posted 18 April 2019 - 11:26 AM

I managed to put it back together but if I try to ff or rw, that cracked plastic piece pops out and jambs against the flywheel. I wonder if i can use jb weld plastic weld to glue it? Should I glue only in the crack and clamp it or should I glue the top flat surface? Does that top flat surface on the plastic piece ever have to come in contact with anything?

Nothing will fix the crack. The hole is made to have a nice friction to hold it in place.

You need that part. I would ask our members here.



#6 dan

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Posted 18 April 2019 - 12:52 PM

What about melting the crack together with heat from a soldering iron while the crack is clamped shut?

#7 Superduper

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Posted 18 April 2019 - 01:47 PM

Is there a missing graphite retainer or clip at the end of the shaft?  Check the end of the shaft, if it's grooved, it's designed for some kind of retainer.  Maybe the parts can be retained if you install a tiny e-clip (or c-clip) to keep everything on the shaft.  



#8 dan

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Posted 18 April 2019 - 01:55 PM

don't think there is a groove and clip.

 

 

the job of that plastic piece is to just hold the spring in place, right?

 

i wonder if these would work?

 

https://www.ebay.ca/...Y4AAOSwc1FZxi6p



#9 BoomboxLover48

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Posted 18 April 2019 - 02:28 PM

What about melting the crack together with heat from a soldering iron while the crack is clamped shut?

They are not thermoplastics, they are thermoset types. One cannot melt and seal it. 



don't think there is a groove and clip.

 

 

the job of that plastic piece is to just hold the spring in place, right?

 

i wonder if these would work?

 

https://www.ebay.ca/...Y4AAOSwc1FZxi6p

It is definitely worth a try. Once it is a tight fit without making a crack that should work fine.

It is just a friction fit plastic piece. 



There is a way!

 

1. Cut/slice uniformly a brass, aluminum or any rigid tube, or ring that you can slip tightly over that plastic. 

2. If you don't get enough fit, slice off a layer from the crack and slip the ring over that plastic piece. Slicing off  0.5mm from the crack will give enough room to squeeze it to the shaft.

 

It is not running at a high RPM always, so there is no much unbalanced load to shift the dynamic equilibrium and cause issues.

 

 

This will do the trick! :yes:  :yes:  :-D

 

~Royce



#10 dan

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Posted 18 April 2019 - 02:28 PM

found these as well:

 

132A pulley

 

https://www.ebay.ca/...qsAAOSwXYtY0NCN

 

 

edit - these pulleys won't work. too big.



#11 BoomboxLover48

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Posted 18 April 2019 - 02:36 PM

found these as well:

 

132A pulley

 

https://www.ebay.ca/...qsAAOSwXYtY0NCN

Excellent! 



#12 dan

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Posted 22 April 2019 - 03:41 AM

I went with the first gear, it is a 182A. It was a little bit too high and would occasionally touch the flywheel while winding the tape in one direction vs the other, so I took it out, got one if those Emery boards for fingernails and slowly sanded away at the gear on one face until I got it to a height of 3.5mm. The cassette deck works fine now. No issues. The best thing about that 182A gear is that it cups the spring like the original piece. I had to order a 70 piece gear assortment on amazon for 15 bucks just to get that one gear. Could not wait 3 months from china. Lol. I did order spares from china just in case i ever need them again. Here's a pic of the gear before i shaved down the height:

If one wants, you could cut away the teeth too but they didn't interfere. Besides, they provide cooling. ;)

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#13 Fatdog

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Posted 22 April 2019 - 04:07 PM

That's good information to know.  Do you have a link to the gear set on Amazon?



#14 dan

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Posted 22 April 2019 - 05:23 PM

here's the link

 

https://www.amazon.c...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

don't look at their chart. some gears are labeled the same part number and incorrectly. it's incorrectly labeled 132a in the top right corner of the chart.