Pioneer sk 700 door removal

donahuest

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Hello. I was hoping somebody could help me, I’m trying to remove the cassette door on this pioneer sk-700 to get it apart to change belts. I see in the manual it says to pull up to get the door off but it doesn’t seem to be budging and I don’t want to break? Any help would be much appreciated
 

BoomboxLover48

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I went through the same trouble and figured out there are hidden screws in the front under the cassette compartment. Pioneer is notorious for all kinds of hidden screws and hard to work on cassette mechanism. However 700 series is easy to work on. I hope you found a way to open it by now.

Slide the door panel up and then it will come out.

Don't attempt to remove the volume controller knob. Leave it there.

Leave the cassette door open when you remove the back.
 

donahuest

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Thanks. Yeah I think I found the screws you were talking about under the cassette controls? I just can't seem to slide the door panel up. Is there some trick? In the picture above it looks like you would just slide up and out. I gave it a lot of force but nothing. Just don't want to bust it.


It came off thanks. It just needed a little elbow grease
 

BoomboxLover48

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Here are some notes I saved. Hope this might be of help! Always take pictures for future reference and make notes.
Cheers!
~Royce



Replaced the two 9.5” belts. I would go with a 9.0” because for some reason record was not working and suspect it has to do with the best tension.

Note: There are altogether 5 screws under the cassette door. Two black screws under the top of the cassette door and 3 gold color ones under the cassette function black plate when you pop it out.

Volume slider comes out from inside with the PC board so don’t try to pull the slider from outside. It is separate.

DO NOT PRESS RECORD.
DO NOT TRY TO PULL OUT THE CONNECTION WIRES ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE DECK. They are not on plug in types. The top plastic flips open and wires just pull out so leave it alone!
Issues: If you press record button the deck becomes no operational until you turn the small pulley on the side of the deck wheels in one direction and align the deck. This pulley has gears also on it.
Deoxit the volume slider with minimum amount and the scratchiness was gone.
Deck comes easily out for working on it.
I didn’t use deoxit on the long record switch when I found no access points without removing the main PC board.

The belt sizes on the pdf file is wrong.
Main Flat belt is 10”
Two medium square- large square belts were 9.5” (old), but might need a 9.2” each.
 

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donahuest

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Thank you very much for the pointers and pics. That helps a lot. I got as far as removing the screws holding the cassette mechanism but noticed there is a circuit board attached underneath that covers access to the belts. Do I just flip the cassette mechanism over and unscrew circuit board to get to belts? Thanks again for your help much appreciated. Also guess I have to order a couple more belts that are the right size.
 

BoomboxLover48

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donahuest said:
Thank you very much for the pointers and pics. That helps a lot. I got as far as removing the screws holding the cassette mechanism but noticed there is a circuit board attached underneath that covers access to the belts. Do I just flip the cassette mechanism over and unscrew circuit board to get to belts? Thanks again for your help much appreciated. Also guess I have to order a couple more belts that are the right size.
There is a board above the belt access area, we have to remove it. Normally those screws are pretty much identical and in some cases they can be different. Make notes of it and see if there are any fiber washers on the PCB when you remove the screws. It was easy to replace the belts. Take pictures and that will help all of us in this forum.

I've added the pic of that PCB

~Royce
 

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donahuest

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Will take lots of pics and post. Have to take a break and do some chores or the wife will think this is all I’ve done all day. Thanks again
 

BoomboxLover48

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donahuest said:
Will take lots of pics and post. Have to take a break and do some chores or the wife will think this is all I’ve done all day. Thanks again
Same is my situation........ :yes: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I was working on an AKAI GXC 735D auto reverse deck with feather touch controls and found the problem with it, now need to order parts. I have almost all auto reverse decks of AKAI.
This one was one of the toughest one I ever worked on.
 

donahuest

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May 4, 2018
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BoomboxLover48 said:
Thank you very much for the pointers and pics. That helps a lot. I got as far as removing the screws holding the cassette mechanism but noticed there is a circuit board attached underneath that covers access to the belts. Do I just flip the cassette mechanism over and unscrew circuit board to get to belts? Thanks again for your help much appreciated. Also guess I have to order a couple more belts that are the right size.
There is a board above the belt access area, we have to remove it. Normally those screws are pretty much identical and in some cases they can be different. Make notes of it and see if there are any fiber washers on the PCB when you remove the screws. It was easy to replace the belts. Take pictures and that will help all of us in this forum.

I've added the pic of that PCB

~Royce
Hi Royce. Merry Christmas. Just trying work in this belt change before company comes. Did you just carefully flip the cassette mechanism over after removing 4 screws? Or did you remove any wires first? I’m scared I’m going to rip wires out trying to flip this to get to the belts.
Thanks
 

BoomboxLover48

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4 screws and a plug in connection. You cannot rip of any wires unless you use force. Be gentle and rest it on a microfiber cloth or a foam. It is easy to work on that belt change. Good luck! Merry Christmas Good luck! Royce
 

donahuest

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Ok got the belts changed . I used a 9.6” flat belt and about 9.2” square belts. It plays but sounds way too fast. Also rr and ff don’t work but you can hear it moving. Arrr.
 

BoomboxLover48

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BoomboxLover48 said:
There are 3 layers of metal plates in the housing holding all the mechanical parts. Top one is the cover of the flywheel, the next middle one and the lower large plate holds all the mechanical parts. That broken piece was mounted to the middle plate. Practically so difficult to remove the middle plate and put it all back together. It will be a high risk maneuver. Have worked on decks like that? Yes, but was a real nightmare! Every gear wheel and springs inside will come off and we look like a cat who spilled the milk.

Not my pic....

donahuest said:
Ok got the belts changed . I used a 9.6” flat belt and about 9.2” square belts. It plays but sounds way too fast. Also rr and ff don’t work but you can hear it moving. Arrr.
Speed can be adjusted with a small flat head screw driver (approximately around 3 mm wide tip) through the hole seen at the back of the motor. Check if any of the contact wheels in the RR and FF are slipping.
 

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donahuest

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Ok thanks. I’ll try that after I check belts again. I’m thinking something must be wrong because the ff /rew dont work as well as fast play speed. When I was putting on the main flat belt I couldn’t tell if it was supposed to sit up closer to the motor or down a bit closer to the smaller belt. The old belt was sitting down closer to the smaller belt but I assumed it slipped down there as it lost it’s elasticity. Thanks again for the tips.
 

donahuest

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May 4, 2018
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Ok here is a video. It looks like the belts to me are turning OK? I don’t know if fast was the right word to describe the sound. Perhaps something needs cleaning? Already tried clearing capstan.

video didn't upload. let me try again. Seems like something is slipping or sticking. Don't want to take it apart again if its something other than the belts.View attachment IMG_4150.m4v.zip
https://youtu.be/g95sDWBedJU



https://youtu.be/g95sDWBedJU
one more try
 

donahuest

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May 4, 2018
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Here are some pics of the Pioneer SK-700 belt change. Being new to this I’m always amazed when the tape actually ends up playing right (done 4 or 5 belt changes only). So stoked to get this pioneer going. It sounds nice and loud. Initially it after changing belts it wasn’t playing right. I had put the belt cover plate on just a little tight. After I fixed that and it started to play I put it back together, hit play, and it didn’t work again. After checking I loosened the circuit board covering the metal belt cover and preso it plays rr and ff. Next up a hitachi TRK 8600 I’ve had for a while but was scared to try a belt change.E14BF8B7-9F0C-4450-91E8-871B99C822B6.jpeg076FB474-78D3-4ADF-A332-D78C6ED06FDB.jpeg4A7DCE7E-D699-4750-B096-2C199A880C3D.jpeg8AEFABBC-0882-46A6-9D0B-00A830F163C0.jpeg9C60C696-4ABC-48AC-9E86-75BB176FF44F.jpegB659C368-AEEC-4286-9737-B413B2AB4A17.jpeg4A303E72-224F-4113-BF0C-A2ECF6ABF801.jpeg
 

donahuest

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May 4, 2018
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Thanks. I tried getting in there with some swans and got some of it but not as much as I’d like. What do you use to clean plastic parts?