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8190 & 8290


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#1 neiloliver

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Posted 14 October 2018 - 03:16 PM

Hello hitachi fans. I am in the process of restoring both of these. I am working on the 8290 first as that seem the least broke. All of the belts were goo. I have cleaned up the mess and have them on order. I have cleaned and lubricated the deck and everything seems to move in and out ok but I am puzzled on the operation of the deck, namely the standby function and a small micro switch set of contacts that only come together when play and ff are pressed. What does that do?

Also, does anyone know, if I separated the deck from the rest of the machine, can I just power the motor from 12v and connect the play head to another piece of equipment to test it? Such as an amplifier?

Lastly, what does the small soliniod do?

One the deck work I just need to get the cracked acrylic out from the radio window and swap it from another. I don’t think that will be easy.

Thanks
Neil

#2 hopey

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Posted 25 October 2018 - 09:27 PM

The reed switch powers up the motor. Its best to test the deck in the box as your audio out has specific connectors on the mainboard. The solenoid may be for FWD and RWD toggle.



#3 neiloliver

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Posted 26 February 2019 - 03:38 PM

Well after too many hours work, both the 8190 and the 8290 are finished. Both work perfectly. The only issue I could not cure was the crack in the acrylic screen on the 8190.

These units are scary when you first start but you just have to take lots of photos and dive in. I now have another three 8190 units in restoration.

One is an 8190W which has dual ac voltage Insput, no LW but two SW channels. Has anyone seen one of these before? I think it is rare.

#4 Atomtan

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Posted 28 February 2019 - 09:41 AM

I took the acrylic out of a custom 8200 I built for my daughter, they are so well bonded in it was the worst job ever.......so was making a new one.

 

I wondered how well the line in works on these units.  My 8200's are excellent, with a simple cable, my 8080 is useless and needs I guess a pre-amp.



#5 hopey

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Posted 28 February 2019 - 10:37 PM

I took the acrylic out of a custom 8200 I built for my daughter, they are so well bonded in it was the worst job ever.......so was making a new one.

 

I wondered how well the line in works on these units.  My 8200's are excellent, with a simple cable, my 8080 is useless and needs I guess a pre-amp.

You may have to put the deck into rec mode



#6 beamrider

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Posted 11 June 2019 - 08:41 AM

Interesting thread.

 

I'm battling to restore my 8190. Every time I open it up I seem to fix one thing and break another. I've 3d printed a new housing for one of the case screws that got broken in transit. 

 

There are a few remaining niggles:-

  • I'm missing 2 case screws, not been able to source any replacements.
  • I'm missing a battery compartment cover so am going to attempt to 3D model and print that (unless anyone has done it before and shared the STL files?).
  • The DPSS doesn't stop on gaps, but that is low down on my priorities
  • When recording from the radio, only one channel seems to get erased. Again a low priority.


#7 Fatdog

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Posted 11 June 2019 - 01:02 PM

Try cleaning and demagnetizing the erase head.  It might be as simple as that.  It will be the smaller head to the left of the play head - to the right if the mechanism is inverted.



#8 beamrider

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Posted 11 June 2019 - 01:41 PM

Thanks, I'll give that a try, although I should mention that it seemed to record correctly from the condenser microphones.



#9 neiloliver

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Posted 16 June 2019 - 02:49 PM

Hello

Since my previous posts I have now restored three 8190 units and have learned quite a lot in the process. It’s been at times very frustrating but also very rewarding.

Can’t help with the screws. I wish I had more myself.

The other day I bought an 8080 just to rob its aerials which were mint and also fit the 8190. The rest of the 8080 was junk and I put it back in ebay to cut my loses!

Anyway, back to your 8190. The search function. I had this problem and traced it to the leaf switches that sit on a pcb under the cassette keys. There should be black plastic insulators on all of these leafs (leaves?) if they are missing (and they do crack and fall off) the switch shorts against the metal of the cassette mechanism and the function fails to operate properly.

You may have the same issue? Worth a check.

The other issue can be the solenoid and the correct amount of lubrication around the sliders that the solution holds.

Good luck.

I meant soliniod, not solution. Damn autocorrect

#10 beamrider

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Posted 04 July 2019 - 06:14 AM

Thanks, I replaced the solenoid and it seemed to fire when I closed the circuit. Will take a look at the leaf switches. Is the solenoid used only for DPSS or is it involved in auto-stop? Just asking as auto-stop seems to work okay.