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Wall of Boom coming soon


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#1 Katsa

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Posted 22 August 2017 - 06:25 PM

Picked up some nice old pine for the shelves - real 2 x 12s. off to find some nice looking brackets next. I travel a lot so this will be a slow progress thread.

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#2 mancardo

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Posted 22 August 2017 - 09:21 PM

:popcorn: 



#3 Lasonic TRC-920

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Posted 23 August 2017 - 10:51 AM

HERE WE GO!!!!!

 

:popcorn:  :gathering:  :popcorn:



#4 Northerner

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Posted 23 August 2017 - 11:17 AM

Cool stuff

#5 MyOhMy

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Posted 23 August 2017 - 12:37 PM

That's some mean sized timber you told us about in the early hours, have you finished the job yet, huh?!  :-D

:gathering:



#6 im_alan_partridge

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Posted 23 August 2017 - 01:12 PM

Good luck :thumbsup:



#7 Katsa

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Posted 23 August 2017 - 06:19 PM

traveling now and the brackets I thought that looked cool only suppport 30 pounds or one vz2000 so I'm off to look for more brackets that are metal and have an industrial look like the ones below. Ideas welcome.

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#8 MyOhMy

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Posted 24 August 2017 - 10:32 AM

traveling now and the brackets I thought that looked cool only suppport 30 pounds or one vz2000 so I'm off to look for more brackets that are metal and have an industrial look like the ones below. Ideas welcome.

 

You've identified one of the more basic, but serious, problems of a heavy duty or industrial style of shelving - the weight.  The combined weight of the shelving, shelf supports and items to be displayed on the shelves usually mean you'll need some kind of upright supports (which I managed to avoid in my Boom Room).  Going overboard with brackets can be a help but, if all the wall mounted shelf supports are too close together (to be able to take a great weight) then there's a risk of horizontal cracks running along the drill holes.

 

There are two ways I would think of overcoming these problems:

a) Different styles of shelving per wall/area to suit particular weight of BB's.

b) Consider the use of metal cantilever style shelving, the type you can see in supermarkets.  These are available in different depths, can be painted or cladded and are able to take huge weights.  Next time you go shopping or to a place such as a hardware store check out the shelving, second hand is not expensive.



#9 Katsa

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Posted 24 August 2017 - 06:59 PM

Will take a look thanks! Have to get ready for the hurricane that is coming my way :(

#10 Lasonic TRC-920

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Posted 28 August 2017 - 05:14 AM

Will take a look thanks! Have to get ready for the hurricane that is coming my way :(

 

Any update with this storm and your Boomers?



#11 Katsa

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Posted 28 August 2017 - 06:26 PM

I am getting ready for lotsa rain Tuesday and Wednesday. Boxes are on elevated surfaces so they are protected. Still looking for some braces I can live with. Found sound that would work but to much money.

I am also thinking of staggering the shelfs to make each shelf specific length per box to get past the weight issue.

#12 Katsa

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Posted 09 September 2017 - 07:25 AM

I think I found my heavy duty powder coated bracket. Now to poly the wood or just put a light stain?

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#13 Katsa

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Posted 16 September 2017 - 10:56 AM

First shelf test fit. Living in an old house where the stud spacing is sparodic is fun. Blue tape on walls is the studs. Thinking of leaving the shelfs un finished they are 100 year old pine.

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#14 MyOhMy

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Posted 16 September 2017 - 12:16 PM

The pine looks good in it's original condition, it complements the (somewhat) 'industrial' look of the brackets.

 

Looking at the pic above, have you given thought to the fact that each bracket has two screw fixing holes which, in turn, means that a single screw has to bear the weight of 1/6th (as there are 6 screws into the wall) of the shelf contents + the shelf + the bracket.  Please don't misunderstand me, I'm not criticizing your work, but have you carried out a 'dry run' on how much weight the fixing screws will bear by using an equivalent weight of books/bricks.whatever + ?%?  I know I can get a little paranoid about such things at times but the R/H bracket is subject to more load stress than the other brackets as it's further spaced than the others.

 

Have you identified all the studs or are there more you have not marked?  The sole reason I didn't use the style of brackets that you have used is that the diagonal support would get in the way of BB's on the next shelf (unless the shelf spacing is greater) down so I had to double up on brackets which are not as robust as the ones you are using to compensate - but I didn't have to rely on stud anyway.  What is the spacing between the drywall and the wall behind (stud thickness) and what is the structural wall made of (if I may ask)?



#15 Katsa

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Posted 16 September 2017 - 04:07 PM

These old homes did not follow a current code of having studs on center every 16 inches. They range from 16to sometimes 22 ish sometimes. The studs are real 2 x 4 old pine. The brackets we secured to the using 1/4 inch 3" long lag screws into the studs. Drywall is either 3/8 or 1/2 I don't remember has been 15 years since I renovated this place.

#16 Katsa

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Posted 16 September 2017 - 05:00 PM

But after thinking about it more I will be taking into down to find a better design. Back to
The drawing board.

#17 MyOhMy

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Posted 16 September 2017 - 06:19 PM

I have lived in old buildings with unequal spacings of studs and joists etc. so I can understand the frustrations with this.  On another point, it may be worth trying to find out how strong the fixings are that have been used to fix the studs to the wall.  I mean, after all your efforts it would be a bitter disappointment to find inferior workman ship was previously used to secure the studs to the wall or the type or strength of the fixings were originally considered to support the weight of the studs with drywall attached.

 

Sorry if it seems I'm putting a damper on your enthusiasm but this isn't the case, I'm familiar with the possible pitfalls to the point of paranoia!  :w00t:  :yes:



#18 Northerner

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 01:28 AM

Try living in a 150 year old stone built cottage where the walls are all uneven and random sized bits of stone so hard you can't drill into 90% of them...now that's a nightmare lol

I moved!

#19 Rimmer36

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 03:03 AM

Try living in a 150 year old stone built cottage where the walls are all uneven and random sized bits of stone so hard you can't drill into 90% of them...now that's a nightmare lol

I moved!

but i bet the bass was good si lol....what id give for a house like that instead of this council crap i live in haha



#20 Northerner

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 03:14 AM


Try living in a 150 year old stone built cottage where the walls are all uneven and random sized bits of stone so hard you can't drill into 90% of them...now that's a nightmare lol

I moved!

but i bet the bass was good si lol....what id give for a house like that instead of this council crap i live in haha
The walls were 3 foot thick of solid stone so I could make as much noise as I liked and no one was bothered lol. Current house is pretty good for getting away with being loud too tho.

#21 Rimmer36

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 03:26 AM

a kaboom in a situation like that si is better than my 10 grand hifi in my shiatty council flat lol...mind you the bass does growl when it wants to lol :yes:  :-)



#22 Katsa

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 11:42 AM

This is what is waiting to come out the closet so to speak, sadly the M90s need some work and the others need some small work too, just no one around where I live. The shop that said they could do work did nothing for my victor but loose the case screws...

Victor M90
Jvc M90, M70, M50
Sharp CT 6001, VZ 2000, GF508SB, GF909
Panasonic 5410
Conion C100FF

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#23 im_alan_partridge

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 11:58 AM

Woah, you have some real heavy hitters there Katsa :drool:



#24 Northerner

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 12:06 PM

Yeh some absolute corkers!

#25 Rimmer36

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 06:08 PM

Nice collection dude, a victor m90 welcome to the club i have the victor too, best m90 made and you have 2 the same as me sweeeet