Wall of Boom coming soon
- Thread starter Katsa
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That's some mean sized timber you told us about in the early hours, have you finished the job yet, huh?! 
:gathering:
:gathering:
You've identified one of the more basic, but serious, problems of a heavy duty or industrial style of shelving - the weight. The combined weight of the shelving, shelf supports and items to be displayed on the shelves usually mean you'll need some kind of upright supports (which I managed to avoid in my Boom Room). Going overboard with brackets can be a help but, if all the wall mounted shelf supports are too close together (to be able to take a great weight) then there's a risk of horizontal cracks running along the drill holes.Katsa said:
There are two ways I would think of overcoming these problems:
a) Different styles of shelving per wall/area to suit particular weight of BB's.
b) Consider the use of metal cantilever style shelving, the type you can see in supermarkets. These are available in different depths, can be painted or cladded and are able to take huge weights. Next time you go shopping or to a place such as a hardware store check out the shelving, second hand is not expensive.
Any update with this storm and your Boomers?Katsa said:Will take a look thanks! Have to get ready for the hurricane that is coming my way
I am getting ready for lotsa rain Tuesday and Wednesday. Boxes are on elevated surfaces so they are protected. Still looking for some braces I can live with. Found sound that would work but to much money.
I am also thinking of staggering the shelfs to make each shelf specific length per box to get past the weight issue.
I am also thinking of staggering the shelfs to make each shelf specific length per box to get past the weight issue.
The pine looks good in it's original condition, it complements the (somewhat) 'industrial' look of the brackets.
Looking at the pic above, have you given thought to the fact that each bracket has two screw fixing holes which, in turn, means that a single screw has to bear the weight of 1/6th (as there are 6 screws into the wall) of the shelf contents + the shelf + the bracket. Please don't misunderstand me, I'm not criticizing your work, but have you carried out a 'dry run' on how much weight the fixing screws will bear by using an equivalent weight of books/bricks.whatever + ?%? I know I can get a little paranoid about such things at times but the R/H bracket is subject to more load stress than the other brackets as it's further spaced than the others.
Have you identified all the studs or are there more you have not marked? The sole reason I didn't use the style of brackets that you have used is that the diagonal support would get in the way of BB's on the next shelf (unless the shelf spacing is greater) down so I had to double up on brackets which are not as robust as the ones you are using to compensate - but I didn't have to rely on stud anyway. What is the spacing between the drywall and the wall behind (stud thickness) and what is the structural wall made of (if I may ask)?
Looking at the pic above, have you given thought to the fact that each bracket has two screw fixing holes which, in turn, means that a single screw has to bear the weight of 1/6th (as there are 6 screws into the wall) of the shelf contents + the shelf + the bracket. Please don't misunderstand me, I'm not criticizing your work, but have you carried out a 'dry run' on how much weight the fixing screws will bear by using an equivalent weight of books/bricks.whatever + ?%? I know I can get a little paranoid about such things at times but the R/H bracket is subject to more load stress than the other brackets as it's further spaced than the others.
Have you identified all the studs or are there more you have not marked? The sole reason I didn't use the style of brackets that you have used is that the diagonal support would get in the way of BB's on the next shelf (unless the shelf spacing is greater) down so I had to double up on brackets which are not as robust as the ones you are using to compensate - but I didn't have to rely on stud anyway. What is the spacing between the drywall and the wall behind (stud thickness) and what is the structural wall made of (if I may ask)?
These old homes did not follow a current code of having studs on center every 16 inches. They range from 16to sometimes 22 ish sometimes. The studs are real 2 x 4 old pine. The brackets we secured to the using 1/4 inch 3" long lag screws into the studs. Drywall is either 3/8 or 1/2 I don't remember has been 15 years since I renovated this place.
I have lived in old buildings with unequal spacings of studs and joists etc. so I can understand the frustrations with this. On another point, it may be worth trying to find out how strong the fixings are that have been used to fix the studs to the wall. I mean, after all your efforts it would be a bitter disappointment to find inferior workman ship was previously used to secure the studs to the wall or the type or strength of the fixings were originally considered to support the weight of the studs with drywall attached.
Sorry if it seems I'm putting a damper on your enthusiasm but this isn't the case, I'm familiar with the possible pitfalls to the point of paranoia!
Sorry if it seems I'm putting a damper on your enthusiasm but this isn't the case, I'm familiar with the possible pitfalls to the point of paranoia!
Try living in a 150 year old stone built cottage where the walls are all uneven and random sized bits of stone so hard you can't drill into 90% of them...now that's a nightmare lol
I moved!
I moved!
but i bet the bass was good si lol....what id give for a house like that instead of this council crap i live in hahaNortherner said:
The walls were 3 foot thick of solid stone so I could make as much noise as I liked and no one was bothered lol. Current house is pretty good for getting away with being loud too tho.Rimmer36 said:
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