Jump to content


Photo

WTB ~ JVC M90 screws and switch cap


  • Please log in to reply
25 replies to this topic

#1 blu_fuz

blu_fuz
  • Moderators
  • 9,965 posts
  • LocationWI

Posted 28 March 2017 - 01:09 PM

My old ad must have been deleted.

 

 

I need 6 of the long rear case screws and 1 switch cap for my project M90 linked below.

 

She is fragile with only a couple screws holding it together, so hopefully I can get a few more original screws before it blows apart on accident.

 

Thanks!

 

 

http://boomboxery.co...one-mans-trash/

 


 



#2 blu_fuz

blu_fuz
  • Moderators
  • 9,965 posts
  • LocationWI

Posted 06 September 2017 - 03:49 PM

Still looking ;-)



#3 Trommelmops

Trommelmops
  • Members
  • 163 posts
  • LocationBrandenburg, Germany

Posted 06 September 2017 - 03:55 PM

Switch cap?  Can I not create some? 

 

How long have the screws to be? And diameter....

 

I have some screws here maybe they fit   :hmmm:



#4 blu_fuz

blu_fuz
  • Moderators
  • 9,965 posts
  • LocationWI

Posted 11 September 2017 - 08:09 AM

http://www.ebay.ca/i...XMAAOSw-W5Ut-q8

 

 

 

A set of switch caps would be nice in ALM but I have no more cash to spend on custom caps.



#5 Trommelmops

Trommelmops
  • Members
  • 163 posts
  • LocationBrandenburg, Germany

Posted 11 September 2017 - 01:24 PM

Only for the test i need an original with measurements.....or you measure it out like the other stuff  :yes: and this was perfect.....

 

 

What 15$ for one screw??????????? this is not real or? Can you tell me the measurements in mm? 

 

And when we need screws i make them all here by myself alone. I got very good ideas to realize them :yes: ......



#6 Trommelmops

Trommelmops
  • Members
  • 163 posts
  • LocationBrandenburg, Germany

Posted 12 September 2017 - 12:16 PM

Dear Joe.....

 

i looked and here i have 6 screws with 2 inches long and 0,11inch in diameter.....3mm in diameter and 5cm long.....

 

Through pure chance I have disassembled  two days ago an old printer from HP and these are the coverscrews.....

 

Exact what you need  :yes:

 

The have a torx head and no phillips but this is not needed.....You can have all 6......

 

Here you see the measurements:

 

Attached File  20170912_194307.jpg   69.05K   1 downloadsAttached File  20170912_194313.jpg   58.72K   1 downloadsAttached File  20170912_194359.jpg   57.7K   1 downloads

 

I have see on ebay the price.....is he serious?????? He was hited by a wrecking ball :lol:

 

Not normal.....here you get all for free...... :thumbsup:

 

And when i have a bid: Only open your eyes when you go around.....the best screws are in old printers.....Coverscrews are mostly the long ones.....Not ever but often.

 

And inside there i collect all the shafts cause i build from these all stuff what you can imagine....and the best i pay most of the time nothing for all material  :-D But Alu i hae to buy too....the shaft they are very good to turn and mill and they are from steel

 

polished with perfect dimensions.....And there are so many springs in it.....



#7 blu_fuz

blu_fuz
  • Moderators
  • 9,965 posts
  • LocationWI

Posted 12 September 2017 - 12:29 PM

I never thought of using printer case screws, great find!!!

 

 

I will take a screw out tomorrow and measure it but yours look almost perfect. I had the measurements posted before but now the link is dead: http://boomboxery.co...ilit=m90 screws

 

 

Thank you!!! :smooch:



#8 caution

caution
  • Members
  • 1,229 posts
  • LocationHillsboro, Oregon

Posted 13 September 2017 - 03:10 AM

I'll post values tomorrow :yes:

The larger cap has a small bevel along the tip like the small one uses.

So, the way it mates with the larger bevels was hard to draw as a 2D view, since that's all I know how to use at the moment.

Got it right I think.

37029703232_72d4fd5be4_o.jpg



#9 caution

caution
  • Members
  • 1,229 posts
  • LocationHillsboro, Oregon

Posted 13 September 2017 - 03:29 AM

The first pics of the tip and base are the big one, then the small one.

There are four types of case screws, although I think my smallest one is a substitute, and should have a head shaped like the others.

 

37059835031_c1b63cea2d_b.jpg

37029891162_08c4bf190f_o.jpg37059834651_1c42fed9e7_o.jpg

37029891072_a468351257_o.jpg37029891012_886e039313_o.jpg

37029890862_f3a6936737_k.jpg

37059834721_d88e8938ea_k.jpg



#10 Trommelmops

Trommelmops
  • Members
  • 163 posts
  • LocationBrandenburg, Germany

Posted 13 September 2017 - 07:33 AM

Cool pix......what is this for a screw with the regular metric thred with the 4 grooves????? These i can easy rebuild if needed.....the others are standard screws....

 

50mm x 3mm or 2ich x 0,11inch is the longest one? Like mine on the pictures.....not the screw with the metric thread i mean.....

 

Ok i wait for the measurements.....then i look what is possible....thx for you help  :thumbsup:



what also needed is is a picture and dimension from the switchshaft without the tips......Maybee togehter with the caliper if possible.....

 

Also the space between the coversides where the switchtips are located. This is important cause maybee i can make them all a little bigger or use the fully space..... :yes:



#11 caution

caution
  • Members
  • 1,229 posts
  • LocationHillsboro, Oregon

Posted 13 September 2017 - 06:03 PM

Maybe that screw is missing some threads to prevent it from seizing? It's going through so much plastic with a fine thread. I'm not sure that's required.

I measured the rectangular shafts the caps fit onto.

Big one: It has a width of 1.2mm, and at the tip it is 3mm tall, but gradually gets taller to 4mm, over a 9mm span.
Small one: It has a width of 1.2mm, and at the tip it is 2mm tall for the entire length of the shaft.
If you notice, the gaps on the caps are 1.1mm, so it's got a slight interference fit.
Actually one of them is 1.2mm, but should be 1.1, my measurements came out a little off.
No idea if you can come close to these, but whatever you come up with will be great :yes:
36377565754_26980df4e8_o.jpg

 



#12 Trommelmops

Trommelmops
  • Members
  • 163 posts
  • LocationBrandenburg, Germany

Posted 14 September 2017 - 01:38 AM

Oh my.....your commitment is great.....First: good drawings  :yes:  but i need and ask for an other dimension  :yes:

 

I need to think about a picture from the switchshaft without the tips  :yes: thats is absolute needed.....

 

And the dimension from the shaft.  the with in both directions and the lenght what is reaching out. How long  i mean is it over the cover

 

The tips are only for the outer dimensions needed. The art of fixng is the point for me......This is the most important. That it is an rectangular shape i read, but i have to see it with my own eyes  :w00t:

 

And then i asking for the space between the both coversides from the frontcover. Here my question: Can the switchcaps be a little wider than the originals?

 

And for this i need the measurement direct from the frontcover. Im sure all of you understand how important this is.....

 

And when we talk about the metricscrew with the 4 grooves im sure.....also when i have no own M90, that is not needed. All threads from the cover i can imagine are

 

not for nuts, i think they are all with plasticthreads.....The metricscrew is not original i think. The dimension and the look is exact like the 2inch long screw with the 

 

needed plasticthread.

 

Or can you see if there is a little cylinder with a normal metricthread or post where the screw is screwing in? 

 

Ok i think is enough.....When i see the shafts by myself i can better imagine what i can do.... :-)

 

For the moment top work! 



#13 caution

caution
  • Members
  • 1,229 posts
  • LocationHillsboro, Oregon

Posted 14 September 2017 - 02:37 AM

Maybe this is what you need?

Unfortunately my M90 frame is not installed right now, so maybe someone else here would be so kind as to pull one of their large switch caps off and see if they can tell where that notch in the shaft is. I am pretty sure that aligns with the case.

 

The large switch cap sits 7.5mm onto the shaft, and the small switch cap sits 6mm onto the shaft.

 

37047652962_7997857425_b.jpg

36382512424_784c338434_b.jpg

37047653062_1b6bf011db_b.jpg

37047652832_f5ee16e025_b.jpg



#14 Trommelmops

Trommelmops
  • Members
  • 163 posts
  • LocationBrandenburg, Germany

Posted 14 September 2017 - 03:12 AM

THX a lot  :-)

 

this will be very difficult.....i have to think about  :hmmm:



#15 Brownlow

Brownlow
  • Members
  • 239 posts

Posted 14 September 2017 - 09:40 AM

I better keep an eye on this thread.  Tronnelmops, I think your endeavors might be helpful to a good few of us.

 

Lord knows I need some case screws and that smaller cap.

 

 

Great detail Caution.



#16 im_alan_partridge

im_alan_partridge
  • Members
  • 2,863 posts
  • LocationLondon, England.

Posted 14 September 2017 - 10:13 AM

That smaller switch cap looks very similar to the ones used on a number of Aiwa boxes, 990, 770 and 600.



#17 Rimmer36

Rimmer36
  • Members
  • 2,117 posts

Posted 14 September 2017 - 03:37 PM

As far as i can tell, the notch in the switches lighns up with the case in both cases lads, that odd looking long screw in the 9th pic is not original ether guys



#18 caution

caution
  • Members
  • 1,229 posts
  • LocationHillsboro, Oregon

Posted 16 September 2017 - 01:44 AM

T;hanks for catching that Rimmer, actually two of them are wrong. Should've known better

The left one on the middle row is for the three spots along the top edge of the back

The bottom screw goes in the other seven sites.



#19 JVC Floyd

JVC Floyd
  • Boomus Fidelis
  • 4,751 posts

Posted 16 September 2017 - 11:24 AM

If some 777 vz 2000 case screws would work I have a few.

#20 Katsa

Katsa
  • Members
  • 54 posts
  • LocationLousiana

Posted 16 September 2017 - 12:00 PM

I am in the same boat need the same screws for an m90

#21 Rimmer36

Rimmer36
  • Members
  • 2,117 posts

Posted 17 September 2017 - 02:38 AM

T;hanks for catching that Rimmer, actually two of them are wrong. Should've known better

The left one on the middle row is for the three spots along the top edge of the back

The bottom screw goes in the other seven sites.

No worries Caution and yes you are correct Sir.....the only other screws that arn't original as you have confirmed is the small screw on the right out of the 4 screws ohh and the long screw on the left isn't original either....what one would give for a screw lol

so just to confirm the 2 centre screws are the original ones on pic 10

 

Floyd as far as i remember dude the 777 screws are totally different, great offer though, never had a vz2000 so can't confirm on that



#22 Trommelmops

Trommelmops
  • Members
  • 163 posts
  • LocationBrandenburg, Germany

Posted 18 September 2017 - 12:56 PM

Little update:

 

Trommelmops isnt able to create the switchcaps  :

 

No possibility to make the needed cut for the shaft. No tool exist to made it. I have asked my complete network: They have all the same opinion:

 

Only with an injection mold. No stamp or punch or cutter or whatever you can imagine can made this cut. Only with wire cutting it goes. But this mashine is

 

rare here.....Noone knows who has one of this special tool. Only companys.....too expensive....

 

So from this point im very sorry but these caps i cant create :sadno: . The other stuff is no prob.... 

 

Im sorry....



#23 Rimmer36

Rimmer36
  • Members
  • 2,117 posts

Posted 18 September 2017 - 04:11 PM

Little update:

 

Trommelmops isnt able to create the switchcaps  :

 

No possibility to make the needed cut for the shaft. No tool exist to made it. I have asked my complete network: They have all the same opinion:

 

Only with an injection mold. No stamp or punch or cutter or whatever you can imagine can made this cut. Only with wire cutting it goes. But this mashine is

 

rare here.....Noone knows who has one of this special tool. Only companys.....too expensive....

 

So from this point im very sorry but these caps i cant create :sadno: . The other stuff is no prob.... 

 

Im sorry....

Trammel mops....i know what the switch looks like but im not sure why you can't make it....there would only need to be a slit in the bottom of it (want a better word) the slit would just need to be vertical  as far as i can tell my friend.no need for the other derection...could someone explain better to trammelmlops than me...thanks



#24 caution

caution
  • Members
  • 1,229 posts
  • LocationHillsboro, Oregon

Posted 18 September 2017 - 04:29 PM

Can't you create a slot by drilling holes?

If you drill them just right, you'll end up with peaks that will bite into the shaft.

 

Here is what I would envision, for the big one at least.

The red would be the three drilled holes, but the rest would be filled in.

The blue outline is the shaft.

 

36475973954_8fe454fe19_o.jpg

36475973794_c195947367_o.jpg



#25 Rimmer36

Rimmer36
  • Members
  • 2,117 posts

Posted 18 September 2017 - 04:51 PM

that's just it, as far as i can see you only need the red part, forget the other direction....thanks caution



#26 Trommelmops

Trommelmops
  • Members
  • 163 posts
  • LocationBrandenburg, Germany

Posted Yesterday, 12:58 AM

Yes I know this kind of drilling.

I can test it. We have discussed this.

I can try it out for you. Maybee we have luck....but please think about the channels which the driller made.....when you drill one hole the next hole has no material at the jacket so the driller can't hold the position and goes to a wrong direction and mostly the little diameter cause the break of the tool.....but I can try it first....

The idea is old and we see what happend Thx for all good ideas....I like the commitment from all of you