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Collective Custom Boombox Project?


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#31 Lasonic TRC-920

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Posted 08 March 2016 - 08:48 PM

Reli, check this out: 

 

 

 

 

If you get D cell rechargeables, then they should work seamlessly.  However, if you are talking about an internal gel cell or something, then that means instead of using something available at any home depot, walmart or target, you would have to design to accommodate the specific battery you wish to use.  What about the charger, will that be internal too?  Because when recharging modern cells, you really need a smart charger for life and safety reasons.  However, it should be easy enough to install external binding posts so you can use any external rechargeable, even car battery size if desired.  I think that would be more desirable than to build in a non-standard battery that might be problematic in terms of future when they wear out.  Actually, an external battery connection might even be desirable since #1 you can use large high capacity cells since I expect this to be quite a hog and #2, I really don't see a unit this large being used much on batteries anyhow.  Who runs their mega boomboxes on batteries anyway?  Be honest, I bet almost everyone plugs in their large boomboxes for 95% of their listening.

 

I always use my Mega Boxes on batteries (J1, Helix HX4700, Wheely) and they are PIGS regular D cells, would be nice to have a built in solution that you could just plug into the wall and charge.



#32 Reli

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Posted 08 March 2016 - 09:54 PM

The issue with D-cell NiMH rehargables like Tenergy, Energizer etc. is that they usually only start at 1.2V when new.  So you don't get as much power from your boombox.   The only way to get a full 1.5V is to buy special NiZn batteries (Nickel-Zinc), but they are only available in AA size, meaning you'd have to put them in a D-size adapter, which does work but wouldn't last very long because a AA doesn't have nearly as many miliwatt hours as a real D-cell does.



#33 Superduper

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Posted 08 March 2016 - 10:33 PM

Hey Chris, I hear ya.  Maybe that's worth investigating further, but remember, I'm thinking to create a run that are all identical.  That means that what we do for one should be done to all.  And this battery option will not be cheap.  Firstly, there is the option to run the system at 12, 18, 22... up to 26 volts.  The higher the voltage, the greater the power to the speakers.  HOWEVER, it takes a lot of current and run in series, will provide higher power but lower life.  Doubling the cells (say, 24 D cells instead of 12) would mean 18v at 20kmA which should offer double the battery life.  Now, if we were to make a built in rechargeable, we would be building the pack using the exact same NiMH battery cells anyhow except with solder tabs instead of button tops that are present on individual cells.  The difference is that instead of using individual cells, we would solder all the cells together and shrink wrap them into a "pack".  However, this means that they can't be charged individually and needs to be charged all together as 1 unit.  Then the charger itself needs to be very robust.  If a linear charger, then it's going to need a cinder block sized transformer to charge up a 24 cell pack of D's.  Are we going to build that into the unit?  Of course a switched power supply can be considered but I don't know if such a supply will introduce noise or not.  It also is not nearly as easy to build as a traditional linear supply so I would prefer to just go that route.... simpler and don't want to over complicate a project that hasn't even gotten off the ground yet.  Traditional supplies are more costly to build at lower volume but simpler.  Switching supplies are far far cheaper when manufactured in high volumes since there is no huge transformer like the linear supplies, but is far more complex so more costly for small runs due to engineering.  Switching supplies are also less reliable.  However I wonder if old computer power supplies (the ones in the performated sheetmetal boxes) might be an option.  I know old computers are put out on curbs all the time since they are pretty much obsolete.  But they have 5v and 12v rails which might be a terrific option.  Would need to test them to see if they can handle the power of the amps though.  Anybody have a source for say ~20 identical ones in the 350w range?

 

As for charging the internal cells, plug in boombox and forget, that's not possible unless you get a smart charger. Otherwise there could be safety issues involved from overcharging which reduces battery life and fire from overheating batteries.  In truth, except for lead acid batteries, NiMH and Lithium shouldn't really be placed on chargers all the time anyhow.  And with the size of these packs, there is no way to charge the cells and operate the boombox at the same time since a single power supply likely can't supply enough juice to do both chores at the same time unless oversized.... again increasing costs and weight. Or you can have 1 supply for the boombox and another for the charger.  But then I wonder if the charging process will introduce noise to an operating boombox when both are within the same unit.   I dunno, this requires more thought.

 

Reli...  1.2v vs 1.5v is no problem.  All that means is we use more cells if we want the same voltage.  In other words, 10 cells to get 12v instead of 8 cells.  The more important thing with NiMH vs Alkaline is that there is less voltage sag during use, due to lower internal cell resistance, and longer run time until they die.  Alkalines turn to gradually drop in voltage whereas NiMH would exhaust almost all of their power before suddenly dropping off.  With Alkalines, the voltage might drop to a point that is unusable while still having maybe 1/3 to 1/2 life left for other less demanding chores.



#34 trippy1313

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Posted 08 March 2016 - 11:22 PM

Hmm, just a thought. Any car bodywork guys out there? If so, can a simple sheetmetal cabinet be worked to make them look nice? But with the high cost of car body work, that's probably out of the question.


I'm actually a bodyman. Lol. I don't do too much fabricating, but I do a lot of metal straightening, cutting, and welding. Always trying with little to no bondo/filler.

Regarding welding, I haven't done much Tig welding, we have one but it never gets used. Although I'd love to practice with it if you think that's the way to go. I am however, without a big head, the best mig welder in our shop.

#35 jimmyjimmy19702010

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Posted 08 March 2016 - 11:38 PM

Hey Chris, I hear ya. Maybe that's worth investigating further, but remember, I'm thinking to create a run that are all identical. That means that what we do for one should be done to all. And this battery option will not be cheap. Firstly, there is the option to run the system at 12, 18, 22... up to 26 volts. The higher the voltage, the greater the power to the speakers. HOWEVER, it takes a lot of current and run in series, will provide higher power but lower life. Doubling the cells (say, 24 D cells instead of 12) would mean 18v at 20kmA which should offer double the battery life. Now, if we were to make a built in rechargeable, we would be building the pack using the exact same NiMH battery cells anyhow except with solder tabs instead of button tops that are present on individual cells. The difference is that instead of using individual cells, we would solder all the cells together and shrink wrap them into a "pack". However, this means that they can't be charged individually and needs to be charged all together as 1 unit. Then the charger itself needs to be very robust. If a linear charger, then it's going to need a cinder block sized transformer to charge up a 24 cell pack of D's. Are we going to build that into the unit? Of course a switched power supply can be considered but I don't know if such a supply will introduce noise or not. It also is not nearly as easy to build as a traditional linear supply so I would prefer to just go that route.... simpler and don't want to over complicate a project that hasn't even gotten off the ground yet. Traditional supplies are more costly to build at lower volume but simpler. Switching supplies are far far cheaper when manufactured in high volumes since there is no huge transformer like the linear supplies, but is far more complex so more costly for small runs due to engineering. Switching supplies are also less reliable. However I wonder if old computer power supplies (the ones in the performated sheetmetal boxes) might be an option. I know old computers are put out on curbs all the time since they are pretty much obsolete. But they have 5v and 12v rails which might be a terrific option. Would need to test them to see if they can handle the power of the amps though. Anybody have a source for say ~20 identical ones in the 350w range?

As for charging the internal cells, plug in boombox and forget, that's not possible unless you get a smart charger. Otherwise there could be safety issues involved from overcharging which reduces battery life and fire from overheating batteries. In truth, except for lead acid batteries, NiMH and Lithium shouldn't really be placed on chargers all the time anyhow. And with the size of these packs, there is no way to charge the cells and operate the boombox at the same time since a single power supply likely can't supply enough juice to do both chores at the same time unless oversized.... again increasing costs and weight. Or you can have 1 supply for the boombox and another for the charger. But then I wonder if the charging process will introduce noise to an operating boombox when both are within the same unit. I dunno, this requires more thought.

Reli... 1.2v vs 1.5v is no problem. All that means is we use more cells if we want the same voltage. In other words, 10 cells to get 12v instead of 8 cells. The more important thing with NiMH vs Alkaline is that there is less voltage sag during use, due to lower internal cell resistance, and longer run time until they die. Alkalines turn to gradually drop in voltage whereas NiMH would exhaust almost all of their power before suddenly dropping off. With Alkalines, the voltage might drop to a point that is unusable while still having maybe 1/3 to 1/2 life left for other less demanding chores.

I know I'm stating the obvious here but I can personally vouch for SLA batteries. You want a simple and reliable 24v power source? - 2 X 12v SLA batteries and a 24v automatic charger - just plug in and forget. SLA batteries love continual top ups which should suit this size box that will spend most of its time indoors.

With the various D class amps I've tested, SLA batteries provide a nice,safe & clean power source. Whilst on charge, no noise is feed to the amp. SLA batteries are heavy but lighter than 20 D cells!! :-)

So no internal transformer needed, just a simple 2.5mm charge jack on the box and you're done.

James.... :-)

#36 caution

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 12:22 AM

Wasn't there a guy that did a 777 with some kind of transfer?  I think he told the company what he wanted and they did the design setup.  That would be great except I think he's in the UK.  :-/ :sad:

 

Yeah, squeezebox had some dry transfers made, the ink has a pressure-sensitive adhesive that will prefer the target surface over the backing paper once pressed, although not always. You have to be careful in its application, especially when you're dealing with fine pieces of text or lines. The one I did fell just above the minimum recommended line weight of 0.5 points (1/144", about 7 mils) to ensure intact separation, and it does get challenging, but if you go very slow it works out beautifully.

 

As it turned out I was in Minnesota when I had mine made, so I got to visit the shop in a side building on his property, been doing it for years. He'll store your screens for 3 years. He showed me how resistant it gets by scraping some with a knife, and squeezebox confirmed that by taking a knife to one of his. It's meant to last years. He's at drytransfer.com, but his site sort of stinks now, it was better last year.

 

Standard silkscreen may almost work out for cost for ten, there are shops all over that do that, but there are possible drawbacks with that too if the ink isn't as robust for small elements, and if you saw an error you made in the original or the shop made a slight goof, you'd have no way of your own to (easily) fix it.



#37 Reli

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 12:24 AM

Reli, check this out

 

 

 

That does look good.....Kind of the same effect as painted numerals on classic tuner dials, but this time it isn't paint.



#38 Superduper

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 12:50 AM

That does look good.....Kind of the same effect as painted numerals on classic tuner dials, but this time it isn't paint.

Laser etching is ultra cool.  I purchased some custom made dog tags.  You buy the tag (tiny things as it were) and insert it into this machine.  You then get to watch as the machine takes this piece of coated metal as the laser "writes" the text onto the part.  Ultra fine text can be done.  The tags I bought had 4 lines of text of approximately 20 characters per line, all in a tag about 3/4" x 1-1/4".

 

 

I know I'm stating the obvious here buy I can personally vouch for SLA batteries. You want a simple and reliable 24v power source? - 2 X 12v SLA batteries and a 24v automatic charger - just plug in and forget. SLA batteries love continual top ups which should suit this size box that will spend most of its time indoors.

With the various D class amps I've tested, SLA batteries provide a nice,safe & clean power source. Whilst on charge, no noise is feed to the amp. SLA batteries are heavy but lighter than 20 D cells!! :-)

So no internal transformer needed, just a simple 2.5mm charge jack on the box and you're done.

James.... :-)

As I said in my long post, lead acid batteries like to be constantly charged but I was thinking more NiMH instead of lead acid.

 

James, a couple questions:

 

a. how much does 2 SLA batteries weigh?  About 5 or 6 pounds each?  Since SLA batteries are chunky as opposed to D cells which can all be spread flat in rows, SLA option mean a beefier chassis to handle the more concentrated weight.  Also, that means they are better suited for semi permanent installation and probably aren't designed for regular removal as they are probably connected with 1/4" tabs?

 

b. How many volts is the charger?  I'm thinking that they are 12 volts?  If 12 volts, then it can't be used to charge the system and run at the same time since it poses some issues.  Firstly, the dual batteries would ideally be run in series (24 volts) for the amp, and center tapped for everything else.  A 12v charger would need the batteries to be connected in parallel during charge.  Now, if the charger is 24 volts, then that can charge the batteries in series but the circuitry probably should not be operated in this manner without further testing since I'm not sure what will happen with the circuits tapped from center of the batteries during a charge.  Additionally, the amps I have in mind are close to their max rating with the batteries at 24v.  To charge a 24v system, the charge voltage would have to be higher than 24v.  Not knowing anything about the chargers themselves, I would not trust the electronics to be run in this configuration.  When SLA batteries reach near full charge, the charging voltages goes very very high.  In fact, 12v lead acid batteries I've seen can reach charging voltages of up to 18volts when fully charged.  I'm sure that a 24v charger will go much higher than 24v's when the batteries start to resist the charge.  That the charger is automatic also means that it pulses. 

 

Lastly, going back to one original goal which is to be able to make all the boomboxes the same.  There is good reason for this.  First is practicality.  If we got 5 or 10 or 15 participants wanting boxes, and each wants different things, in other words, build to suit, then we are instead of building 15 of one design, we are building 15 separate boxes, each individualized and each with a new separate set of challenges.  Each will have to have unique tweaks worked out and trust me there will always be issues that need resolving.  In the end, some will get finished, some will be a never ending source of issues, some owners will be unhappy, etc. etc.  Like I said, I think any customization to suit should be done by the individual owner of their own example and any participants should be familiar enough with how the thing is setup to be able to modify to their hearts content.  I know I would like the ability to install standard readily available batteries without having to have them permently inside the boombox for a couple reasons.  #1, it would be lighter, #2, I personally would likely never use that feature, and #3, there is less risk that I forget the batteries are in there and they eventually leak.  Now there's no reason why anyone who gets one of these couldn't simply rig up some SLA batteries internally and connect to an external jack for a charger.  But there's no reason to make them all like that unless that's what every participant wants.  Anyhow, that's my feeling.

 

I know SLA they are a cheaper option than getting NiMH but NiMH does have it's advantages.  First lead acid batteries do not like to be deep cycled.  They lose life very quickly when run like this (how much depends upon the exact battery).  Also once discharged, they better be recharged like RIGHT NOW or they might go dead forever.  Lead acid batteries begin sulfating the moment charge is level is low.  Then there is capacity.  A 7ah SLA battery is a common size but it's still fairly large.  NiMH batteries with 10,000mAH is common (10AH).  They have no memory effect and can be charge hundreds of times, deep cycle is no problem at all so run em until they are dead, not an issue.  Then there is weight.  I have 7ah batteries in all my computer UPS's.  They are not light and I'm not sure at all that they are lighter than 10 D cells.  While I wouldn't bet my life on it, I'm pretty sure that certainly, a 10ah-12V SLA option has got to be heavier than 10 D cells.

 

On a side note, has anyone actually tried out the NiMH D cells commonly available on eBay?  I wonder how well they do in boomboxes.  Standard power tool battery packs are constructed using only sub-C cells and they last a very long time and have tremendous power.  If the D cells are proportionally higher in capacity, then they should work out very very well.  But in truth, I'm only going by advertised numbers and not via any personal experience.



#39 jimmyjimmy19702010

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 01:08 AM

A 7.2 aH SLA battery weighs 2 kilos. An equivalent sized Lithium Ion battery weighs 1 kilo so half the weight but 10 times the price. I was thinking of going with a smaller sized 4.2 aH SLA (1.5 kilos) in a 24v setup as the runtime of the 7.2 aH deep cycle SLAs I use is really over the top.

I charge my single 12v battery with a Jaycar 12v automatic 600ma charger. With this setup, I am able to run the amp at high volumes whilst charging. According to the built in digital volt meter, the battery voltage continues to rise with the charger connected and the BT receiver and amp operating.

The charger charges the battery up to 14 volts but no higher no matter how long it's connected. The charger unit is completely cold when the battery is fully charged. The amp can cope with 14.4 volts so no issues there. I've used 4 different brands of battery with identical results.

The SLA batteries can be spread out , laid on their side etc so to offer a low centre of gravity.

I've run the amp at 3/4 volume with BT & the volt meter running + charged an IPhone over a 8 hour period with the battery voltage only dropping to 12.3 volts at the end - that's good enough for me. 12.3v is actually the lowest I've ever had a battery go before charging.

But I understand if you want to stick with the old school D cell format.

James.... :-)

#40 Reli

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 01:21 AM

All sorts of pre-made speaker trim on Ebay:

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.ebay.com/..._cFeLiGQcHYPE3A



#41 Superduper

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 01:43 AM

The first 2 are pretty cool looking but too small except maybe for tweeters.  The bottom one, well no offense but that is simply toooo ugggly!!!

 

Frankly, a rectangular panel covering the entire speaker array probably is easier, do you think?  Because if we go with rings, then they should all sort of match right?



#42 redbenjoe

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 01:53 AM

 

 

There's a guy on Stereo2go who has posted a couple dozen of his own mock-ups, including a 777 that I liked.  You could see if he's willing to help.  Another option is to just use an existing boombox as your starting point, make a 3D scan of it, and use that as your "base" to tweak.  Like, say you like the Sharp 777, but wish it were longer, shorter, darker, different grills, or whatever....Use it as a starting point and then tweak it. 

===============

 

​YES --the perfect guy - s2g name is RETRO --he is their USA moderator - lives in NY city -

creates gorgeous boombox designs -

PM him like NOW

also --he is a member HERE-

so send him a heads up on this entire thread



#43 BoomboxLover48

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 07:10 AM

Why can't we make use of power tool batteries?

They are quite expensive though but it is the buyers decision for the affordability and selection of batteries. So a separate battery holder/compartment is all we need in the design with terminal hook ups. (terminal connections vary from one brand to another...) 

 

They come with their own charger and got 18V, 20V types also. All smart chargers! 

 

Li ion types, 3.0 Amp Hour, 5.0 Amp Hour etc

 

http://www.amazon.co...tteries 18 volt

 

http://www.amazon.co...4EQ65V0WCWZAYHQ

 

http://www.mscdirect...2=2167139&025=c

 

http://www.cpoindust...akita-batteries



#44 Reli

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 08:03 AM

The first 2 are pretty cool looking but too small except maybe for tweeters.  The bottom one, well no offense but that is simply toooo ugggly!!!

 

Frankly, a rectangular panel covering the entire speaker array probably is easier, do you think?  Because if we go with rings, then they should all sort of match right?

 

 

 

Oh, you can get them in different sizes that match.  The first one is pretty common in multiple sizes. 

 

Here's another concept that I think looks cool:

 

http://www.ebay.com/...4lWTVgO&vxp=mtr

 



#45 BoomboxLover48

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 09:25 AM

If outsourcing is an option... These guys do it all for metal fabrication including precision metal laser cutting up to 0.50"....http://www.acemetal.com/



#46 hardmen

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 02:07 PM

Just an "idea" for directions to go.
Lyle Owerko Vox Machinna (scupulture mix of VARIOUS radios in a BIG ONE).

Pretty in Plastic studios turn the Lyle "boxes" reallity (six of them was made for an exibition)...

Man... ...If I put my hands in JUST ONE with all those digital audio reallity today...

Attached File  Lyle-Owerko-Pretty-In-Plastic-Boombox20 (1).jpg   140.26K   9 downloadsAttached File  LyleOwerko_PrettyInPlastic_BoomboxProject_2694 (2).jpg   55.3K   8 downloadsAttached File  LyleOwerko_PrettyInPlastic_BoomboxProject_2882.jpg   371.8K   9 downloadsAttached File  Lyle-Owerko-Pretty-In-Plastic-Boombox14-862x573.jpg   97.62K   6 downloadsAttached File  LyleOwerko_PrettyInPlastic_BoomboxProject_2712-862x572.jpg   113.98K   5 downloadsAttached File  LyleOwerko_PrettyInPlastic_BoomboxProject_4621.jpg   420.02K   10 downloadsAttached File  Lyle-Owerko-Pretty-In-Plastic-Boombox10-862x573.jpg   58.1K   5 downloadsAttached File  LyleOwerko_PrettyInPlastic_BoomboxProject_2395.jpg   43.62K   7 downloads

Cheers.

Attached Files



#47 Superduper

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 03:01 PM

Anyone buy one of those 3-D printers yet?

#48 -GZ-

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 03:12 PM

Just an "idea" for directions to go.
Lyle Owerko Vox Machinna (scupulture mix of VARIOUS radios in a BIG ONE).
Pretty in Plastic studios turn the Lyle "boxes" reallity (six of them was made for an exibition)...
Man... ...If I put my hands in JUST ONE with all those digital audio reallity today...
attachicon.gifLyle-Owerko-Pretty-In-Plastic-Boombox20 (1).jpgattachicon.gifLyleOwerko_PrettyInPlastic_BoomboxProject_2694 (2).jpgattachicon.gifLyleOwerko_PrettyInPlastic_BoomboxProject_2882.jpgattachicon.gifLyle-Owerko-Pretty-In-Plastic-Boombox14-862x573.jpgattachicon.gifLyleOwerko_PrettyInPlastic_BoomboxProject_2712-862x572.jpgattachicon.gifLyleOwerko_PrettyInPlastic_BoomboxProject_4621.jpgattachicon.gifLyle-Owerko-Pretty-In-Plastic-Boombox10-862x573.jpgattachicon.gifLyleOwerko_PrettyInPlastic_BoomboxProject_2395.jpg
Cheers.

OH.MY.GOD. SIGN ME UP. ARE THOSE 15". DO THAT!
I'd throw $500 in for sure!

#49 blu_fuz

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 03:14 PM

So we should make it cartoon size!!???



#50 Superduper

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 03:27 PM

OH.MY.GOD. SIGN ME UP. ARE THOSE 15". DO THAT!
I'd throw $500 in for sure!


Even that non functional model will cost you way more than 5 bills. How about a functional one?

#51 -GZ-

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 03:52 PM

Those pics got me really excited. My bad. I'd give my left nut for one of those boxes functioning.

 

Id be down to "invest" in this project Norman. As long as it looks like an old school boomer. Sadly i have no skills to offer other than cash but hey, cant do it with out the money!



#52 Superduper

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 10:25 PM

No one has to invest anything yet and nothing will be for sale.  There will be a lot of limitations to the design that will need to be compromised simply to meet the goal of assembling "off the shelf" parts or modules to minimize the need for engineering, then stuffing the whole thing into a hopefully attractive housing.  While fantasy features are great if you can fit the idea into the design in a practical and cost effective manner, otherwise, fantasy needs to stay fantasy unless you guys can find a working module actually available for acquisition.  And the only numbers I've seem thrown other there mentions a few hundreds of dollars, so if your one feature costs $500 per, then forget it since heck, this is Boomboxery, home of cheapskates, hehe.  Remember, it's easy to romanticize about fantasy features if we were simply creating a drawing or concept of one.  But if we are going to make a handful (remember, handful and not 50,000), then cost and practicality needs to be considered unless guys are willing to break the bank one one.  Oh and there is mention of buying one.  Sorry but none will be for sale.... you are either in it from the beginning, or you get to follow along and make your own using our attempt as a proof of concept attempt.  If you didn't want to invest yourself into the project to begin with and like what you see as the project takes place, and you later want to buy one, sorry...........  time for gnashing of teeth. 

 

Now, some of the good things about a modular project is, at least if what I have in my mind works out is that the innards are all modular and can be swapped out for upgrades or replacement if something fails.  This includes speaker drivers, type of power, adding lighting or other special features, the amp or amps, etc.  I have seen them all either on eBay or other vendors.  Except the power supply -- that I might need to think about developing a custom one with multiple rails and taps to allow all the modules to take power from.  Sort of like an aftermarket car fusebox with aux taps.  Blown amp?  No problem, rip out the old and just stuff another one in there.  Ideally, for costs, minimizing noise, prevent duplication of components and system, the whole design can be put on one board.  However, that defeats the stated goal of an off-the-shelf project.  If one was going to invest what it takes to develop something like this from the ground up, it won't be done collaboratively, it would be done on a large scale to minimize production costs per unit, and recover RD costs and maximize profits to the investor.

 

The modules I have in mind are as follows and they form the foundation for the assembly:

 

Audio Sources:

  • Tuner (HD)
  • CD-Player
  • MP3 (usb and SD card type)
  • Bluetooth Aux
  • Video (maybe) LCD screen for playback of video files **
  • Media Player for audio/video **
  • ** These might be wishful thinking due to availability of front panel real estate and maybe complexity that could jeopardize project for many reasons including lack of concensus.

 

Power Sources:

  • Custom internal Power Supply (AC)
  • Battery (standard D cells) holders, up to 20 ~ 24 cells.
  • External 12V DC input for external DC battery
  • ** custom battery or alt power source choices is individual owner's own responsibility to customize.

 

Circuitry:

  • Internal Source switching module (Tuner, CD, MP3, AUX)
  • External Source switching module  (when in AUX mode, switches froom an array of aux inputs)
  • Tone control board (bass, treble, volume, balance, and loudness switch).
  • VU/Power Meters or Spectrum Analyzer Display (or both).
  • Discolite it? or some other led color organ type of flashy visual feature?
  • Amplifier module (tons of options available) 2,4,6 amps.  Configuration depends upon speaker setup.  Also affects design of PS.

 

Speakers:

  • Proposed, 3-way with 10" woof (or 6.5" subs), 6.5" full range, 2.5" cone tweets (or ribbons if you guys want to splurge $$$).
  • ** Because speaker selection directly affects aesthetic as well as functional design elements, there needs to be concensus on this before the cabinet phase even gets off the ground.  Lastly, speaker drivers really could go from dirt cheap to exotic huge $$ options.... for the purposes of this project, I suggest we simply get decent cheap drivers first and owner could then customize and swap to their hearts content and wallet since how hard can it be to swap out some speakers.  That way we aren't quibbling about whether to employ $15 woofers or $150 (each) ones.

All suggestions are welcome but the voices of those who have pledged to participate will get the greatest consideration (and of course get to vote on final design details). 

 

Now since this is all just in the speculating and thinking stages, I will in the weeks to come, begin to purchase exactly some of the modules above I am speaking about.  I will then test them to see if such a project is even feasible or whether these modules will all interface together without major issues.  Once that is out of the way, if everything seems positive, then I will broadcast my results and ask for members to pledge whether they want to participate or not.  Once we get an idea of how many interested participants, then my plan is to discuss in greater detail with anyone (Joe, Trippy?) about the cabinet design and costs and whether the project is feasible.  To some folks, plunking down thousands on a custom project is fine.  Just see what car builders/hobbyists are willing to invest in their  hobby and you'll know what I'm saying.  To others, $300 is too much.  Therefore, budgeting is a huge issue.  When participants are pledged, then fine financial details and nitty gritty will be discussed in private group discussion to see if a consensus can be reached on all the nitty gritty's of the project.

 

Maybe this project might not take off.  Maybe I might need to do this individually to retain control of the project in case there is too much dissent on the details or other aspects of the project.   I dunno, but I do hope to be able to do this jointly with a another or few other interested parties.  Time might be running out for me and this is something I really wanted to do for a long time.



#53 blu_fuz

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Posted 11 March 2016 - 08:45 AM

I'm all ears for mounting specs, cabinet design features, and overall finished shape. We can start with any rough sketch from anyone and tweek it from there. Norm, if you have a shape/style/overall dimensions in mind, scribble it down in paint or on a napkin, I don't care how. We will figure out framework and hiding fasteners as we go. Just having a visual will help people step up to be in the production run if it takes off.



#54 Reli

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Posted 11 March 2016 - 11:38 AM

One thing I wouldn't want is a video screen.  I feel that takes away from a classic look. No offense but I'm pretty direct with my opinions, lol. 

 

The only type of screen it should have is one that shows digits, like track number or radio station.

 

Also, if it has some kind of phone cradle, it should be on the top or the back, instead of the front.  Nothing looks dumber than a box with a phone stuck on the front.   Put it on top or on the back where it can't be seen.  Hell I wouldn't even bother creating a cradle, as it would require complex tooling to create. 

 

Just have Bluetooth, USB, an SD card reader, RCA jacks, and an FM radio.  That's all it needs.  A CD player is ok I guess, but it takes up a lot of space, and I'm willing to bet that most of you rarely play yours.



#55 blu_fuz

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Posted 11 March 2016 - 11:47 AM

I only play cd's in my vehicles BUT I would play them in my blasters if they had a slot.



#56 hardmen

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Posted 11 March 2016 - 11:54 AM

To me, just that looks of Pretty in Plastic mix box with BT, USB and AUX IN is enough!

Cheers.

#57 Reli

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Posted 11 March 2016 - 12:04 PM

Mount the tweeters at the upper corners, for better stereo separation than you would get from coaxial drivers.



#58 trippy1313

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Posted 11 March 2016 - 12:20 PM

I'm all ears for mounting specs, cabinet design features, and overall finished shape. We can start with any rough sketch from anyone and tweek it from there. Norm, if you have a shape/style/overall dimensions in mind, scribble it down in paint or on a napkin, I don't care how. We will figure out framework and hiding fasteners as we go. Just having a visual will help people step up to be in the production run if it takes off.


I agree. I'm no artist when it comes to having a vision of something. But if I can see something, there's a better chance I can try to work on ideas of making them.

#59 Lasonic TRC-920

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Posted 11 March 2016 - 12:21 PM

Reading this, it really makes me value what the engineer's in the 70's and 80's went through to create an all around useful product. Facing the limitations of an on board power supply (12v, 13.5v or 15v) to get power systems strong enough to BLAST MUSIC. Some of them serious winners (M70) some of them serious losers (most others).

 

Seeing everyone's inputs of what they want out of a boombox, knowing what I want out of a boombox and hearing what is possible or where THIS project may go is a real balancing act.

 

I think some of the area's we can all agree is:

 

It has to look like a classic blaster
Needs to have real performance (think C100 power, M90 cleanliness)

Modern connectivity

 

I think the rest will be up for argument...

 

Will this be a HUGE table top radio (think Sharp VZ2000) that can technically run on batteries and be taken outside, but is so heavy and bulky that you never would?

 

20D cells in a 40" radio would render it nearly impossible to rock down the street. 

 

Is the goal to simply beat the Wheely in size to be the "Biggest" regardless of practicality? 
(The Wheely is RIDICULOUS in size at almost 3 feet long)

 

What I want:
 

I want to take it outside on some sort of battery power that can last all day and not cost me a fortune to run.
I want to be able to carry it around, by handle or strap

It has to be reasonable on weight 

It has to fit in my trunk  :lol:



#60 blu_fuz

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Posted 11 March 2016 - 01:21 PM

I think the same thing, it doesn't have to be massive to be good. I would like something no bigger than Lasonic 931 size (which is smaller than a TDK 3 speaker)