Jump to content


Photo

Collective Custom Boombox Project?


  • Please log in to reply
115 replies to this topic

#1 Superduper

Superduper
  • Boomus Fidelis
  • 6,169 posts
  • LocationSomewhere over the rainbow, USA

Posted 08 March 2016 - 01:29 PM

I have been wanting to create a custom (high quality) boombox using all (as much as possible) brand new off the shelf components.  Brand new because there is an inherent issue with continuing availability of old parts for spares or replacement.

 

Anyhow, some parts of the project will require some professional services beyond my skills.  These include someone with, or access to the following:

  • Mechanical sheet metal fabrication (steel or preferably aluminum for appearance and weight reasons).  This includes maybe precision brakes to bend the sheets.
  • CNC cutting machines (lathe or plasma, but I'm thinking lathe for better appearance).
  • Plastic supply and/or fabrication.
  • Faceplate design and cutting for controls
  • Art work for design with mind towards balancing cost, aesthetics (not just a rectangular box) and practical construction.
  • Decorative parts design services for things such as speaker rings, tweeter louvers, fun badges, emblems, or other bling/bling.
  • Silkscreening or transfer or painting services.
  • Design/manufacture of suitable handle capable of lifting a large/heavy (maybe ~ 40+ pound) boombox.
  • Materials scraps for little or no cost, or fresh materials cut to specifications for as cheap as possible.  This includes plastics, metal mesh (speaker grills, amp vents, etc), sheet metal, aluminum panels, (c, u or l channels) for adding strength to panels and bolstering area around handle.
  • Access to materials and/or ability to create precision cuts and wood fabrication with attractive and durable hardwood for trimwork.  Aside from trim, the boombox will not use wood for any structural areas in the interest of weather durability and dimensional stability when exposed to elements. 

 

I am happy to pay for these services to create my own boombox.  HOWEVER, read on if this sounds interesting.

 

I am also interested in perhaps a collective effort in a Custom Boomboxery Boombox Project.  This may be a limited run of perhaps 10 to 20 boomboxes.  If you notice that the very first sentence of this thread says (high quality) boombox.  This means no cardboard, no plywood construction, no square box stuffed with a car stereo and power supply.  Nothing against those but that's not what this project is about.  So what I had in mind, and this is just brainstorming right now, with changes not only possible, but likely as the project moves forward, if at all, is the following:

 

  • It will be large.  At least 30" to 40" in length, about 8 to 10 inches deep and could be 16 to 18 inches tall.
  • Have new digital HD tuner with preferably a RDS display like you see on cars that displays station ID, current song or program info, and of course AM stereo and lots of cool additional stations.
  • Have 1/8" auxillary jack in front for your personal MP3 device.
  • Have rear RCA aux-ins, lots of them.
  • Have front thumb drive socket for MP3 playback
  • CD player, front loading using computer style 5.25" drives.
  • Have internal blutooth
  • Battery compartment lid, can use screws to attach panel.  Batteries will take 10, 16 or 20 D cell batteries, user selectable.
  • Internal power supply.
  • Bass/treble/volume (optional balance) with loudness.
  • Spectrum analyzer display (can turn on/off)
  • VU meter bargraph.
  • 2 or 3-way speakers, 8" to 10" woofers.  Or maybe 4x 6.5 or 8" woofs, ala GF-777 style
  • Subwoofer (if enough old kaboom woofers can be accumulated) or maybe passibe radiator design
  • 2 or 4 or 6 amps, depending upon the layout of the speaker system that will be decided on.
  • Perforated metal speaker grills, if someone has the skills to bend some to fit into the design.
  • Maybe true leather clad trim?

 

Total run limited to 10 or 20 identical boomboxes.  Each direct contributor is entitled to 1 boombox of the final product (If no objections, I get 2; one for myself and one to give to another member), as I will be doing a lot of if not most of the project management and assembly labor.  There will be 2 classes of participants:  #1 will be direct contributors.  #2 will be members wanting one but unable to contribute in any other way.  Class #1 will be responsible to pledge anywhere from $200 to $400 for acquisition of parts and which could be less or more depending upon ratio of #1 and #2 participants.  All labor should either be donated to the project or costs of those services shall be approved in advance by the members in the project.  Class#2 members should pledge $1,000 (just guessing, could change) to the project.  You will get 1 boombox.  The rest of your pledge is used to pay for materials and any services cost.  Don't laugh....  look at the specs above and what is involved.  If you read carefully, you'll see that this is a serious project and not a weekend slap together.

 

Lastly, as it's hard to separate people from their money, no matter how good the deal, the chances of getting such a project off the ground is not great.  It's also hard for folks to be spectators as everyone wants to get involved.  But too many chefs in the kitchen and, well, you know where I'm going with this.  So this is either going to be a fun project or at worse, just a fun discussion.  One thing is for sure, the collective effort project is a non-starter if I'm the only one, in which case, I'll just eventually build my own for my singular enjoyment.  The reason is that while I have ideas and can accumulate the parts (just buying, how hard is that?), building the boombox cabinet that meets my satisfaction is beyond me as a diy'er since I know I do not want a square plywood box.  So even if the collective project is a non-starter, I'm still looking for someone to build me a suitable cabinet.  Anyone?



#2 systemaddict

systemaddict
  • Members
  • 1,402 posts
  • LocationEast Coast England

Posted 08 March 2016 - 01:38 PM

This sounds amazing, unfortunately I neither have the skills or money to contribute in anyway.....but I wish you the very best with this very difficult project and hope it pulls off for you Norm cos it sounds like the finished product would be both unique and amazing.

#3 jimmyjimmy19702010

jimmyjimmy19702010
  • Members
  • 3,162 posts
  • LocationSunny Brisbane, Australia

Posted 08 March 2016 - 02:02 PM

This will be an interesting topic. Obviously, if the whole thing is plastic, then sound quality will be compromised right from the start. If you were to make a solid timber internal frame that resides inside an outer plastic bling casing, you could have the best of both worlds. However, the weight penalty could be substantial.

Unless performance is elevated to the same level of importance as asthetics, then you'll be building a 'new edition' of an old, vintage sounding original.

James.... :-)

#4 Superduper

Superduper
  • Boomus Fidelis
  • 6,169 posts
  • LocationSomewhere over the rainbow, USA

Posted 08 March 2016 - 02:06 PM

This sounds amazing, unfortunately I neither have the skills or money to contribute in anyway.....but I wish you the very best with this very difficult project and hope it pulls off for you Norm cos it sounds like the finished product would be both unique and amazing.

For my own project, I already have plans on what to do, and have pretty much sourced the parts and modules I've decided to use.  If I had a single case, I would already be building it.  However, some other folks might have access to materials or skills and might want to be a part of this which is why I even just threw it out there.  If it doesn't happen, that's OK, as my own project would still happen.  But I just thought, wow, wouldn't it be fun if we can create a Boomboxery created boombox that some lucky members might be fortunate enough to have an opportunity to own?  I am not asking for money contributions.  That is only for folks that thinks they will want one but won't be lifting a finger to help with the project.  What will one get?  Something far more desirable than any $1,000 M90.  I've sold an M90 for $2650, another for $4400, and an M70 for around $800 I think, and an M9994 for around $650.  I would take this one, completed, over any or even all of those collectively.  And with a limited run of 10 or 20, how much would one of these go for on eBay with a properly created auction?  :hmmm:   But that's not what this is about.  Hopefully anyone that ends up with one would cherish it forever since it is a one of a kind creation and the sentimental value alone has got to be priceless, if not many thousands of dollars. But again, so ar this is just brainstorming.



#5 Superduper

Superduper
  • Boomus Fidelis
  • 6,169 posts
  • LocationSomewhere over the rainbow, USA

Posted 08 March 2016 - 02:10 PM

It's going to be a heavy boombox James, no matter what material used.  Note the size, 30" to 40" long.  But no wood unless trim.  And there are all plastic boomboxes that sound fantastic so that's not really a concern.  Not building a home stereo here, got those already and not trying to compete with that.  Needs to be inert enough that being in a humid environment won't result in termites or wood expansion (or degrading to sawdust), etc.  But really, it's just portable enough to carry from one place to another, not for walking around with.  For that, we got mini's.



#6 blu_fuz

blu_fuz
  • Moderators
  • 10,099 posts
  • LocationWI

Posted 08 March 2016 - 02:24 PM

-I will help you cover any steel, aluminum, stainless.

-Cutting with a CNC plasma table (up to 1.5" thick mild steel) or our sheer (up to 1/4" thick mild steel) are the only 2 cutting options by machine.

-We have 4 different brake presses for bending any of the above materials (no flange less than 1/2").

-Welding steel and stainless available. 

-I have an account with Fastenal, so if there are fasteners/threaded-retainers you need just make a list.

-Will also cover any powder coating that you might need under 18" in total length. 

-Might have some mesh options here as well. 

-I also have access to our full automotive line of paint if we decide to paint the cabinets.

-My brother is heavy into blown glass, so if you have a need for that let me know.

-I can probably do any woodworking trims/bits you need too.

 

 

Get me on the list.



#7 JustCruisin

JustCruisin
  • Members
  • 2,938 posts
  • LocationMidwest, USA

Posted 08 March 2016 - 02:31 PM

:popcorn:

#8 Superduper

Superduper
  • Boomus Fidelis
  • 6,169 posts
  • LocationSomewhere over the rainbow, USA

Posted 08 March 2016 - 02:34 PM

Joe, can you do aluminum or thinner steel?  The stuff you did for me last time were pretty thick and with a cabinet the size we are speaking of, that would be too heavy, almost like a mini gun safe, lol.  Maybe we can source some alumunimum sheet?



#9 blu_fuz

blu_fuz
  • Moderators
  • 10,099 posts
  • LocationWI

Posted 08 March 2016 - 02:48 PM

Yes, I can get thinner materials. Thinner aluminum sheet will be really prone to denting if we don't get some relief bends into some of the larger flat areas. (think car door, has creases for strength)

 

Maybe some thin mild steel or stainless would be better? I know caution has gotten some nice thin material for making his C100 replacement trims. He might be able to help for that part of the finished product for precision bending of 1/8"-3/8" I believe the material I sent you was our 18ga galvanized steel (0.0515). Galvanized material cuts like crap on the plasma table.



#10 Superduper

Superduper
  • Boomus Fidelis
  • 6,169 posts
  • LocationSomewhere over the rainbow, USA

Posted 08 March 2016 - 02:58 PM

It didn't look like galvanized, more like standard steel.  There was a lot of slag and stuff.  Not sure on a decorative part (like a faceplate with numerous switch and knob and tuner window holes, that it would look good.  I suppose could be sanded and painted but a brushed aluminum finish would look so cool and high-end.  If painted, plastic would work just as well but not sure what processing technique to use for cutting square holes in that.

 

As for aluminum sheet, it doesn't need to be super thin.  Also, if the edges are rolled/bent, won't that add strength?  In other words, can we roll and bend it so that it ends up into a rectangular housing missing only the front and rear plates? 



#11 redbenjoe

redbenjoe

    I Am Legend

  • Eternal Order of Boom
  • 17,944 posts
  • Locationflorida

Posted 08 March 2016 - 03:10 PM

i can make hardwood trims - like mahogany is both strong and light -

and it finishes with a very rich // elegant look 

======================

also -- thinking of my sanyo 824 .. it has an analogue tuner with a digital traveling read-out bar -

can you source parts for that ??



#12 blu_fuz

blu_fuz
  • Moderators
  • 10,099 posts
  • LocationWI

Posted 08 March 2016 - 03:12 PM

These parts were 0.0515 galvanized steel.

Attached File  image.jpg   69.59K   6 downloads

 

 

This is the thinnest galvanized steel we have:

Attached File  image.jpg   55.94K   5 downloads

 

 

 

This is the thinnest stainless steel we have:

Attached File  image.jpg   54.49K   5 downloads

 

 

 

 

The problem with these thin materials is we can't weld them. I don't know anyone around that would weld anything this thin. I know exposed fasteners is not going to be an option, so what would be the plan for corners we can't form?



#13 Lasonic TRC-920

Lasonic TRC-920
  • Moderators
  • 13,259 posts
  • LocationNaples, Italy

Posted 08 March 2016 - 03:25 PM

Very interesting Norm, I like this idea.

 

I have two hands...

 

Maybe I can aid in assembly?
Wiring internals based on your design?
Final fit and finish?

 

Tell me what you need.



#14 Superduper

Superduper
  • Boomus Fidelis
  • 6,169 posts
  • LocationSomewhere over the rainbow, USA

Posted 08 March 2016 - 03:40 PM

Ira, that sounds good.  But I thought you can't do precision woodwork with the equipment you have at your shop.  Oh and sourcing parts for that analog/digital tuner combo.  Let me think for a moment.  No.

 

Chris, that sounds like it could be a plan.  Can you do a bunch of them if Joe sends the cabinets to you?  Assembly-line style?  Also you can probably figure out the battery compartment lid.  Thumbscrews are most convenient but they protrude and wonder if they will be problem area prone to snagging during portable transport.  Maybe regular decorative screws are OK but then people tend to lose them.

 

Joe, those might work.  If we bend the corners so that the last corner is at the bottom, we can secure with fasteners.  Decorative fasteners on front might be OK.  Just not the ugly fasteners and of course fastener spacing will need to be precisely located and some thought into strategic placement or it would look funky.  Back fasteners might not be too much of an issue.  How about a functional "chassis" with the sheet metal, then cosmetic panel on top (plastic), side panels of mahoghany (ala 7000, 7200) like Iras suggested, and front panel out of aluminum.  (I know a place that can custom create aluminum equipment front plates with cutouts, etc for audio or test equipment, but they are pricey).  Unless you can do it, that would be even better if we don't have to source, can cut down on cost.



#15 blu_fuz

blu_fuz
  • Moderators
  • 10,099 posts
  • LocationWI

Posted 08 March 2016 - 03:50 PM

I agree, any exposed fastener has to have a distinct spacing/pattern to avoid being an eyesore.



#16 Reli

Reli
  • Boomus Fidelis
  • 4,627 posts
  • LocationUSA

Posted 08 March 2016 - 05:00 PM

Aluminum would be sweet, because unlike steel, you can anodize aluminum.  And anodizing looks way better than paint or powdercoat, IMHO. 

 

But the main challenge I see with a project like this is the styling.  There are so many variables in the style of a box.  It wouldn't look good as a simple flat-sided box, so you have to decide what kind of angles and bevels to give to it.  And it's best to consult a real designer for stuff like that.

 

Even if you styled it all by yourself, you still probably wouldn't like the end result very much, because you're not a trained artist or designer.   It's the same thing with interior design.....You might look at an interior design catalog and say "that looks great, I want THAT stuff in my house!!!".........but you would never have been able to choose that combination of furnishings without help. That's what designers are for.

 

There's a guy on Stereo2go who has posted a couple dozen of his own mock-ups, including a 777 that I liked.  You could see if he's willing to help.  Another option is to just use an existing boombox as your starting point, make a 3D scan of it, and use that as your "base" to tweak.  Like, say you like the Sharp 777, but wish it were longer, shorter, darker, different grills, or whatever....Use it as a starting point and then tweak it. 

 

‚Äč

 



#17 Reli

Reli
  • Boomus Fidelis
  • 4,627 posts
  • LocationUSA

Posted 08 March 2016 - 05:12 PM

If you use a central sub, give it a glow option, so it can pulsate with the beat.   There's several modern boxes that do that --- Sony, Pyle, etc.  You could crack one open to see how they do it, and maybe even harvest parts so you don't need to fabricate your own lighting.

 

A modern Big Ben would look cool, with a sub that glows red.

 

My preference is LED meters instead of needle ones.  OR, if you're going to use needles, give it transparent ones that carry light, like the ones on the Toshiba WX1.



#18 trippy1313

trippy1313
  • Members
  • 1,752 posts
  • LocationSeattle-Tacoma, WA

Posted 08 March 2016 - 05:13 PM

I don't have any stainless wire, but I'm pretty confident I can mig weld that thin. Problem is that thin will likely warp pretty easy if it's just mild steel.

Joe what is it you do again? Does your company have resources to obtain HSS or UHSS types of steel? (Ultra-High Strength, High Strength). I've mentioned it to others before, but this stuff is lighter and stronger.

I could always get a hold of body panels, but that wouldn't be cost-effective.

#19 trippy1313

trippy1313
  • Members
  • 1,752 posts
  • LocationSeattle-Tacoma, WA

Posted 08 March 2016 - 05:17 PM

Sounds like a great project idea Norm. I'm sure I can't be much help, but if there is anything, I'd be glad to try.

#20 blu_fuz

blu_fuz
  • Moderators
  • 10,099 posts
  • LocationWI

Posted 08 March 2016 - 06:20 PM

Kingmfg.com
I am the senior engineering assistant. We design and fabricate a lot of structural steel and misc welding/fab/paint/design.

#21 Superduper

Superduper
  • Boomus Fidelis
  • 6,169 posts
  • LocationSomewhere over the rainbow, USA

Posted 08 March 2016 - 06:23 PM

Hey Trippy, can you tig weld?  For thin material and best apperance, that would be ideal.  However, we aren't building a car so we don't have to weld like structural considerations are paramount.  In fact, I think a few strategically placed tack welds would suffice.  First,t he chassis/cage should be welded or we can just secure with fasteners.  However, small C,U or L pieces should ideally be tacked along the panels to make them more rigid and minimize bowing.  Securing those with fasteners might not be as good.  This would only be necessary if the material is thin.  Not sure how thick it needs to be... maybe Joe is the best judge of that since he has the stuff in hand and can tell better than I.

 

Reli, design wise, although it would be nice if this has the sexy design of say a ferrari or lambo if this were a car, keep in mind that we are only talking about a handful of boxes here, not 50,000, so that's a reality and compromise that we have to consider.  But as you say, in my mind, I dismissed the option of just a square rectangular flat box.  However, a few raised areas and depressions I believe is all we need to add interest, and this can be doable.  Also, lets not get too carried away design wise.  Again, remember that we are only talking a handful of boxes and aren't mass producing.  Anyhow, I don't want to go to the other site and introduce this idea there because then I would have to monitor both sites for reaction and I'm barely here now, lol.  So we are limited to easy to obtain off the shelf parts.  That strobe thing you want, remember that Sony probably had those drivers custom made.  The more custom made stuff we add to this, the higher the cost.  In fact, I'm going to say that by far, the highest costs for this project is going to be those things we have to professionally commission and it's just not practical cost wise to do it for a run of a dozen or two.  A huge center sub might seem like a good idea but we would lose a lot of real estate in the center to place all the features we want.  I don't want top controls.  Due to the large size, front controls only, otherwise on the table, you might need a chair or ladder just to see the top of the box.  Anyhow, maybe back or side subs (ala kaboom might be an option?).  In other words, the effect without the visual feature.

 

Any artists here that can help with rendering a photoshop visual on what this might look like?  I'm going to try to fit most of the display into a top tuner sized acrylic panel display, maybe about 24" x 4" or so.  If someone knows how to etch a square line around the edge around 1/2" from edge of an acrylic window, this will light up nicely with side illumination.  Maybe even add some lettering (the Boomboxery project?).  Inside this window will be the digital  tuner LCD display, spectrum analyzer, MP3 LCD, CD control LCD,  and maybe along the bottom edge, a LED VU meter.  Acrylic etching can be done with a hobby CNC laser engraving.   The top 1/4th of the front can be raised proud by maybe 1/4".  Maybe just the acrylic panel ala M9994?  Then we need to reserve enough room in the center for the front loading CD player, controls, etc.  Otherwise, design wise, the lower part of the center is open to suggestions.  Once complete, all of the internals will be revealed so anyone else can duplicate this into their own cabinet.  Well, to a point.  I think I will have to rig up a custom power supply with various rails to accommodate all these modules with differing power requirements.  This might be challenging since this could lead to ground loop noise issues.  Also, until all these parts are integrated, there is no telling what the final S/N ratio is going to be.  Since we aren't designing this from scratch, not for such a small run,and these "modules" are all going to be made in china, it's probably going to mean that there is going to be some less than perfect S/N issues.  The only question is whether it's going to be something we can live with.



#22 Superduper

Superduper
  • Boomus Fidelis
  • 6,169 posts
  • LocationSomewhere over the rainbow, USA

Posted 08 March 2016 - 06:35 PM

Hmm, just a thought.  Any car bodywork guys out there?  If so, can a simple sheetmetal cabinet be worked to make them look nice?  But with the high cost of car body work, that's probably out of the question.



#23 Reli

Reli
  • Boomus Fidelis
  • 4,627 posts
  • LocationUSA

Posted 08 March 2016 - 06:47 PM

Are you thinking of just a flat acrylic sheet for the tuner window, with some etching on it?  I was thinking about some perpendicular extensions behind that sheet, which would insert into the boombox and serve as a brace for the window as well as a possible mounting point for some lights.  Because if you mount lights to the edge of a frosted acrylic sheet, the light will carry through the rest of it.

 

See this post to see what I mean:

 

http://boomboxery.co...uper-pimp-leds/

 

This would, of course, require some extra thought and labor, but if we got it right, it would look sweet.  Perhaps an acrylic company could cut something to our specs.



#24 BoomboxLover48

BoomboxLover48
  • Boomus Fidelis
  • 4,803 posts
  • LocationChicago, IL

Posted 08 March 2016 - 07:06 PM

It is a great thought!

 

If one is looking for the automotive console area finish we need so many experts for each component.

 

The question is what level of aesthetics we are looking for.

 

I love that mahogany wood sidings idea from Ira. Those two sides alone can give lots of structural integrity if it designed well and can have so many shades based on the stain and wood coating over it. We can go from clear piano finish to dull matte. 

 

Is it possible to have glass touch screen controls. Just a thought! It is easy for me to say that but Norm will only know the difficulty level based on technology and economics. 

 

Now they have glass touch screens with LED that light up only when you activate an exterior door or main power switch. 

 

Here are some nice designs..... 

Attached Files



#25 Superduper

Superduper
  • Boomus Fidelis
  • 6,169 posts
  • LocationSomewhere over the rainbow, USA

Posted 08 March 2016 - 07:47 PM

Are you thinking of just a flat acrylic sheet for the tuner window, with some etching on it?  I was thinking about some perpendicular extensions behind that sheet, which would insert into the boombox and serve as a brace for the window as well as a possible mounting point for some lights.  Because if you mount lights to the edge of a frosted acrylic sheet, the light will carry through the rest of it.

 

See this post to see what I mean:

 

http://boomboxery.co...uper-pimp-leds/

Reli, I was thinking more along the lines of something like this:  121914872109

Of course instead of iron man lighting up, I would have a rectangular border and some text for branding, module caption (such as tuner, mp3, cd-player, etc.  This panel would be inside the cabinet face and side lit which as we know, only lights up the engraved areas.  External to this would be a flat protective panel like the M9994.  Those little thumbscrews are very cool too.

 

 

 


I love that mahogany wood sidings idea from Ira. Those two sides alone can give lots of structural integrity if it designed well and can have so many shades based on the stain and wood coating over it. We can go from clear piano finish to dull matte. 

 

Is it possible to have glass touch screen controls. Just a thought! It is easy for me to say that but Norm will only know the difficulty level based on technology and economics. 

 

Now they have glass touch screens with LED that light up only when you activate an exterior door or main power switch. 

 

#1, if done, they are all going to be the same.  Any customizing whether finish or what not will have to be done by the individual owner.

 

#2, No touch screen.  We are only making a small run, not 50,000 units.  And as I said, we are using off the shelf modules and integrating them.

 

#3, Yes, nowadays they have touch screen and all kinds of features.  BUT we are only making a tiny tiny tiny run, and integrating OFF THE SHELF modules.  In order to integrated a touch screen feature, that means the entire boombox will be MPU controlled, and custom programmed to handle all the controls.  And since there is no way to integrate the various off the shelf modules (all built from different manufacturers) with a central processor control without extensive modification to every module, that means the only practical way to build such a thing would be to:

  1. A fresh from scratch design from CD Rom controller to Tuner to MP3 to Aux-In, to Tone Controls, etc.and then design all the solid state switching to handle all the switching and program an MPU to control all those features and end up with a boombox that costs countless hours of design time and huge $$$$$ PCB manufacture costs for a handful of boards.
  2. Buy an already made unit with all the fancy features you already want so as not to have to invest the money to engineer a new one, strip out the internals and then chuck the engineered cabinet, and stick them all into a new custom designed cabinet in which case it's exactly the same as the one you bought except that won't have the manual bass/treble and volume controls anymore, will rely on a menu system to adjust whatever you want, etc.

Not saying a touch panel is no good.  Just saying highly impractical to make a few units like this.  Also, I like to have a knob when I want to adjust the volume and not have to rely on a menu control for things like that.  And after all, isn't that one of the greatest features about our old classics?  Oh how I miss being able to reach onto the dash of my old classic car and adjust the radio by feel without looking, something that is impossible these days.



#26 Lasonic TRC-920

Lasonic TRC-920
  • Moderators
  • 13,259 posts
  • LocationNaples, Italy

Posted 08 March 2016 - 07:52 PM

Yes Norm, If you're talking 10 to 20 boxes, I could handle the assembly process, just not 100  :-O

 

I have designed a few radio's for a possible one off customization,

 

I can have a look at your list of options / requirements and try to draw something up.

 

 



#27 Lasonic TRC-920

Lasonic TRC-920
  • Moderators
  • 13,259 posts
  • LocationNaples, Italy

Posted 08 March 2016 - 07:56 PM

Norm, I think what you're touching on here is what I personally want out of a project like this.

 

Old School design, old school tactile feel, modern reliability.  

 

Question:

Would you consider a rechargeable battery?



#28 Superduper

Superduper
  • Boomus Fidelis
  • 6,169 posts
  • LocationSomewhere over the rainbow, USA

Posted 08 March 2016 - 08:19 PM

Reli, check this out: 

 

 

 

Norm, I think what you're touching on here is what I personally want out of a project like this.

Question:

Would you consider a rechargeable battery?

 

If you get D cell rechargeables, then they should work seamlessly.  However, if you are talking about an internal gel cell or something, then that means instead of using something available at any home depot, walmart or target, you would have to design to accommodate the specific battery you wish to use.  What about the charger, will that be internal too?  Because when recharging modern cells, you really need a smart charger for life and safety reasons.  However, it should be easy enough to install external binding posts so you can use any external rechargeable, even car battery size if desired.  I think that would be more desirable than to build in a non-standard battery that might be problematic in terms of future when they wear out.  Actually, an external battery connection might even be desirable since #1 you can use large high capacity cells since I expect this to be quite a hog and #2, I really don't see a unit this large being used much on batteries anyhow.  Who runs their mega boomboxes on batteries anyway?  Be honest, I bet almost everyone plugs in their large boomboxes for 95% of their listening.



#29 caution

caution
  • Members
  • 1,391 posts
  • LocationHillsboro, Oregon

Posted 08 March 2016 - 08:20 PM

The C-100F trims I made are 26 gauge (18-19 mils) brushed T304 stainless. It was the thinnest the laser cutting shop had and as far as I can tell it's the thinnest brushed stainless anyone carries. It's thin enough to use as trim but tough enough to avoid denting. It's also the thickest stainless you can use on about any bending brake, if that comes into play.

 

For the lettering, silkscreening would work best but dry transfer works just as well, it just takes a lot of time to apply.



#30 Superduper

Superduper
  • Boomus Fidelis
  • 6,169 posts
  • LocationSomewhere over the rainbow, USA

Posted 08 March 2016 - 08:23 PM

The C-100F trims I made are 26 gauge (18-19 mils) brushed T304 stainless. It was the thinnest the laser cutting shop had and as far as I can tell it's the thinnest brushed stainless anyone carries. It's thin enough to use as trim but tough enough to avoid denting. It's also the thickest stainless you can use on about any bending brake, if that comes into play.

 

For the lettering, silkscreening would work best but dry transfer works just as well, it just takes a lot of time to apply.

Wasn't there a guy that did a 777 with some kind of transfer?  I think he told the company what he wanted and they did the design setup.  That would be great except I think he's in the UK.  :-/ :sad: