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C-100F control panel trim spec


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#91 Lasonic TRC-920

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Posted 12 July 2017 - 01:56 PM

They look fantastic. Amazing work.

 

What about laying some sort of clear tape over them? Then trimming to size



#92 caution

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Posted 12 July 2017 - 08:50 PM

Hmm... Chris, do you mean use clear tape to hold them in place? That might work, but the tape may not stay down. It turns out Joe was right. I was doing another spare tape drawer trim last night, and none of the lettering stuck down after rubbing them all. After a ton of rubbing they barely did. But, the next one I did stuck down in like 10 seconds without any effort.

 

So, I took a really bright LED flashlight and examined the finished ones, and most of them have various levels of a sheen on them. It's not much but it's there. I either didn't do enough of a clean or it was something on the TP from a prior use. It may have been because of the brushed surface, and needed more effort to get them 100% clean.

 

*sigh* I gotta get on with other boxes. This has taken more time and far more money than I wanted and still ain't there yet. I do need a set for the ones missing on my second C100F but this isn't fun anymore, no sir. I'm hanging onto these so I have nine chances to f*ck up if I ever get back to it.

 

I know many who would love to have a set of these as much as I do, in fact word is starting to spread that I've completed these and I'm selling them. If there is interest I can order more of the aluminum from OnlineMetals and have it cut locally while you do the bending and brushing. If you want the same lettering you can order another sheet from drytransfer.com or just stick some letters on there from a generic store-bought sheet.



#93 harry.stone1111

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Posted 10 October 2018 - 08:58 PM

Man, you are an artist. I sent you a message about them.

#94 Transistorized

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Posted 11 October 2018 - 12:39 PM



Here it is, in the tape door frame. Should be fairly self-explanatory.

 

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I noticed that a lot of these boxes only seem to have one of the two holes drilled which seems to indicate that maybe the original spring used in these style boxes might have only been on one side. For that reason and because it was within my small skill level  :-D  I ended up only using a spring on one side. So far it's been holding up well. Been about 8 months to a year since I bent this spring for my C100. 
 
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#95 caution

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Posted 12 October 2018 - 02:00 AM

Quick update to this thread. I finished bending most of the button and tray trims with a new set of bending brake fingers that had a nice sharp edge. Turned out sort of okay. But, I still don't have a lettering solution better than dry transfer yet.

 

The Helix boxes had a different spring, the C-100F has one on the right hinge of the door.

 

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#96 caution

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Posted 29 October 2018 - 02:01 PM

After a ton of tweaking on the adjustments for the brake, I was able to do all the same bends for the pieces that I needed. The new bending fingers have a nice sharp edge.

 

My values for the lower deck button and door trim were fine, but the tray trim was a hair short, so this first batch doesn't quite make it over the top. I cut out a sample piece at the right size, and it fit like a glove.

 

Unfortunately, the metal gets scuffed by the brake, even with tape, so next time the bending must be done before lettering. The lettering also gets damaged by the brake. The dry transfers I applied are not sticking well enough to withstand wiping from a cleaning cloth, so I've been looking for more permanent solution. Silkscreening is a lot of messing around, but I see that laser marking is just as precise, and more permanent, so I think I'll give that a shot.

 

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#97 Lasonic TRC-920

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Posted 29 October 2018 - 02:33 PM

Damn that's some fantastic work man! TOP TOP TOP WORK!  :hooray: 



#98 harry.stone1111

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Posted 29 October 2018 - 07:18 PM

Wow. Beautiful work there, Caution. Love to see what you do. You're a true artist.



#99 dj2fresh

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Posted 19 December 2018 - 08:38 PM

Quick update to this thread. I finished bending most of the button and tray trims with a new set of bending brake fingers that had a nice sharp edge. Turned out sort of okay. But, I still don't have a lettering solution better than dry transfer yet.

The Helix boxes had a different spring, the C-100F has one on the right hinge of the door.

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Is this the spring I may be missing so my eject button works properly? You have to give the door a little help so it opens when there isn't tape inserted. With a tape inserted it almost ejects on its own. Here is a photo inside my cassette door.

Attached Files



#100 caution

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Posted 19 December 2018 - 10:33 PM

Yeah you slip it onto the right hinge before you install the door.



#101 dj2fresh

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Posted 20 December 2018 - 07:06 AM

Yeah you slip it onto the right hinge before you install the door.

When you have time could you post a picture with Tape 1's door open so I can see where the end of the spring slips into the hole? (If it's possible to see from the top view).  I would like to take a stab at making this spring. Thanks  :-)



#102 MyOhMy

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Posted 20 December 2018 - 09:53 AM

:w00t:  It's the detail that does it for me, the dedication, time, effort & diligence applied to every single aspect of this fantastic work is incredible - you deserve more praise than I could ever impart for all you have done with this project.  Awesome, just awesome.



#103 ralrein1

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Posted 21 December 2018 - 02:26 AM

You really have done some beautiful and skilled work here. My hats off to you sir! Your a true craftsmen.👍👍

#104 caution

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Posted 21 December 2018 - 03:03 AM

Thanks for the comments. Christine, I really appreciate that, it does take a lot of time to work through, I hope it inspires others here to try. It's like a big puzzle tryiing to finish every piece, you sort of get more motivated as you get more done.

 

The left side has the same notch under the hinge pin, so in theory you could make a mirrored version of this spring and have on one either side or both sides.

 

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#105 dj2fresh

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Posted 26 December 2018 - 07:17 AM

I looked around and couldn’t find a post, are there any documented steps to remove the door? Best practices? Do you have to take the whole unit apart to do this? Thanks for all you help.



#106 Transistorized

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Posted 01 January 2019 - 11:18 PM

I looked around and couldn’t find a post, are there any dicumented steps to remove the door? Best practices? Do you have to take the whole unit apart to do this? Thanks for all you help.


You need to squeeze the "rales" (sides) of the deck door to release the door and open it far enough to release the hinges

#107 dj2fresh

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Posted 04 January 2019 - 06:27 AM

Can you confirm, does the original spring look more like the one in this photo for the C-100F? I can't remember where I found this pic online but want to make sure I create an exact match.

 

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#108 caution

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Posted 04 January 2019 - 03:30 PM

Please start another thread about your concerns if you can. Thanks