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C-100F control panel trim spec


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#31 CSI

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Posted 31 July 2015 - 03:18 AM

Yes it's the gold one. How can i post an image of it here ?

 

I found the exact match from a stick on sign from the hardware shop (for toilets or something - the screenprint came off easily with some thinners) but the it's a little too thick. i'll make an effort to see if i can find the correct material in the right shade of 'brass'

 

Also looking for the spring (can't imagine that's going to be easy though) and also replace the perspex - does anyone have the spec for this they can help me with ?

 

Thanks All



#32 stragulus

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Posted 31 July 2015 - 09:09 AM

The spring is not that hard. Find a wire that has about the right tension and thickness, and you can easily roll it into the correct shape with needle nose pliers. Standard paper clips are a decent match, although they are generally just a little too short. I have done this before, but I had another one to copy from. Remind me and I'll post a picture of it later.

 

(edit) My Helix has a spring that is rolled on 2 sides. Those sides slide over a pin on each side the tape door itself. Then there are 2 protruding ends that go into 2 holes the boombox case. My clairtone only has one hole in the case for some reason, but that was the box that was missing the spring. For the clairtone it probably only needs a spring rolled up on one side then, in which case a normal paperclip would be long enough.



#33 CSI

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Posted 31 July 2015 - 09:33 AM

Thanks Stragulus - been taking a look at this today and reckon i could do this easily enough. Appreciate the advice



#34 caution

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Posted 31 July 2015 - 09:49 AM

I'd be curious to see those also. It's the only part I was missing on both boxes, I couldn't figure out how it was getting down and forward force from the case, those little case dimples seemed right but couldn't be sure.



#35 stragulus

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Posted 03 August 2015 - 06:58 PM

Here it is, in the tape door frame. Should be fairly self-explanatory.

 

Attached File  IMG_20150803_205154.jpg   60.38K   9 downloads



#36 caution

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Posted 07 August 2015 - 01:04 AM

Thanks. That's strange... both of my cases are missing a hole for the right side of the spring (as oriented in the pic) to stick through. I was always looking at the side without a hole, there's just a little dimple, so I thought the spring had to be reaally short to sit in that rather than stick through. I made a spring for the side with a hole and although It opens a tad slow it works now.

 

The panels should be ready tomorrow, and the bending brake arrives, but still need to find some of the same material to practice on first.



#37 CSI

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Posted 07 August 2015 - 02:29 AM

Mine too only has a hole on the right hand side (view straight on) and a dimple for an un-drilled hole on the left had side. i was just going to drill this through and use the 2 ended spring that Stragulus is showing, unless someone has got a reference of an original one sided spring ?



#38 stragulus

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Posted 07 August 2015 - 08:44 AM

I have a Helix that has both holes, and a Clairtone that only has the one hole on the right side. What brands are all of yours?

 

You can just make the spring like the one I took a picture of, but with the left side shorter. It should work.



#39 caution

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Posted 07 August 2015 - 09:20 AM

I have Conions. Is your Clairtone spring the same as the Helix?



#40 stragulus

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Posted 07 August 2015 - 09:35 AM

The clairtone was the one missing the spring.



#41 CSI

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Posted 07 August 2015 - 10:27 AM

Mine's a Conion too. Here's a pic of the area, you had see a hole on the right and a dimple on the leftAttached File  tape holes.JPG   143K   18 downloads



#42 stragulus

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Posted 07 August 2015 - 11:35 AM

Strange indeed. I wonder if they just botched the molds and went with it. My clairtone has a very slight dimple on the left but not as pronounced as the conion's. I.e. no way that any kind of spring could be used there.



#43 caution

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Posted 08 August 2015 - 08:44 PM

Brake's here! Picked up some pieces of 26 gauge stainless for practice....

 

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#44 CSI

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Posted 09 August 2015 - 01:32 AM

Impressive stuff. looking forward to seeing the results



#45 caution

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Posted 12 August 2015 - 01:19 AM

Took me quite a few tries to get a straight bend this close to the edge, but more practice should bring consistency.

 

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#46 CSI

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Posted 12 August 2015 - 06:37 AM

That's some serious effort you're making to get it just right. Good on you Caution. Look forward to seeing the finished result



#47 caution

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Posted 26 August 2015 - 01:24 PM

So nearly a month after dropping off the trims, three weeks later than I thought it would take, I'm told he hasn't even started the work and had misplaced my parts. Very frustrated.

 

I suppose it's a blessing in disguise, the guy treated me like a chump when he gave me an initial estimate, sarcastically saying later on that he should charge me nearly twice the quote he gave me first, like I was supposed to haggle with him. Just a bad feeling all around. Pretty disappointing since he's got a big shop and has been around a long time and apparently does pretty good work.

 

If you have any experience doing silkscreening yourself or know of a better source I could mail these to I'm open to suggestions.



#48 blu_fuz

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Posted 26 August 2015 - 01:38 PM

I have a great contact for dry rub transfers if you have all the text/fonts scaled and layed out properly. PM for more details.



#49 caution

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Posted 16 September 2015 - 09:27 PM

Good news! I got dry transfers made and they turned out great, I was even able to stop in and personally pick them up at his shop.

 

This was my first shot at applying dry transfer so I wasn't expecting perfection. It's a laquer that slowly dries out over time so even after a week it's not as sticky as it was when I got it. Brushed stainless is still pretty shiny and can be tricky getting it to stick. I had a few pieces of letters get misplaced or not at all, and even one number shifted a bit. But with a little magic those can be fixed enough to be nice. The resolution is just the same if not better than the original silkscreen.

 

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#50 blu_fuz

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Posted 16 September 2015 - 09:41 PM

Caution that worked like a dream, yeah!!!!

Glad the dry transfer method worked. A+ buddy!

#51 Okelly

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Posted 17 September 2015 - 08:15 AM

👍 Looks original to me

#52 MyOhMy

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Posted 17 September 2015 - 09:16 AM

This is amazing!!!  So much work, limitless dedication and expertise like gawd knows what - MY, Oh My - I really am amazed!

 

I'm particularly interested in the transfers as I'd like to do this on one (or more) of my TRK-8130E's, I've one going through the paint stage at the moment.  I was dreading having to use individual letters and all the stress that would entail trying to line up every character to the nth degree.  Can we (ME!) have more details, please?  Just how do you get Dry Transfers made of the face of a BB?

 

Apologies, not trying to hijack the thread but I'll start a new topic if necessary.



#53 caution

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Posted 17 September 2015 - 12:50 PM

Thanks! MoM, you don't have to create a new thread :-) You're not going to like the answer, but here goes...

The tricky thing is that all you have is the original part. On the Conion the lettering is printed on metal trim which can be removed, so it was easy to capture with a flatbed scanner. Your Hitachi has them applied right to the case, so it might take a really good closeup picture. Thankfully in most cases the fonts are online to be pilfered. I then typed in each letter I needed into Inkscape, which then traced the letters for me, which essentially converts them from being a bitmap to a vector, which is just a fancy way of saying the letters are described in terms of an outline defined by x-y coordinates, rather than a pile of pixels spread out to create the shape of the letter. I also had to do this a few times before they were correctly scaled.

Even after you get a scan, the lettering may be all scratched up (as it was for me) so it's only useful as a positional reference. It's also hard for most tracer programs to find edges in images. It's best to start fresh with crisp original text and recreate it all by hand. It took quite a while to redraw all of the little lines, circles, dots, etc. and get them all centered on the original scan. If done right, the end result is extremely sharp and has no jags from pixels.

I did all of the graphics work in a high-end CAD tool, but I'm sure there are other tools that are equally competent like Illustrator or other CAD programs. With the original scan in the background as a reference, and a micrometer in hand to confirm things on the original part, I just redrew all the stuff and positioned my letters over the old ones.

I'm leaving out a number of steps but that's the basic rundown!

#54 caution

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Posted 17 September 2015 - 01:07 PM

I forgot to mention - the original plates created for these will be available for up to three years, so if anyone wants to try this, they will be cheaper. He also does multiple colors, something like the Korean Conion with additional red graphics would be possible too.



#55 baddboybill

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Posted 17 September 2015 - 02:45 PM

I agree they look great


Bad Boy Bill

#56 MyOhMy

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Posted 17 September 2015 - 04:52 PM

Thanks! MoM, you don't have to create a new thread :-) You're not going to like the answer, but here goes...

The tricky thing is that all you have is the original part. On the Conion the lettering is printed on metal trim which can be removed, so it was easy to capture with a flatbed scanner. Your Hitachi has them applied right to the case, so it might take a really good closeup picture. Thankfully in most cases the fonts are online to be pilfered. I then typed in each letter I needed into Inkscape, which then traced the letters for me, which essentially converts them from being a bitmap to a vector, which is just a fancy way of saying the letters are described in terms of an outline defined by x-y coordinates, rather than a pile of pixels spread out to create the shape of the letter. I also had to do this a few times before they were correctly scaled.

Even after you get a scan, the lettering may be all scratched up (as it was for me) so it's only useful as a positional reference. It's also hard for most tracer programs to find edges in images. It's best to start fresh with crisp original text and recreate it all by hand. It took quite a while to redraw all of the little lines, circles, dots, etc. and get them all centered on the original scan. If done right, the end result is extremely sharp and has no jags from pixels.

I did all of the graphics work in a high-end CAD tool, but I'm sure there are other tools that are equally competent like Illustrator or other CAD programs. With the original scan in the background as a reference, and a micrometer in hand to confirm things on the original part, I just redrew all the stuff and positioned my letters over the old ones.

I'm leaving out a number of steps but that's the basic rundown!

 

Thanks for that lengthy explanation, caution.  I understand the basic principles of vector graphics use mathematical formulae and the difference of pixelated bitmaps/other image file formats although I've never worked on/with them (the VG's).  I have three TRK-8130E's, one primed for painting so two with an option to scan.

 

I've not used the particular image graphics software you've mentioned, would I be correct with this (partial) over-simplified summary?:

Scan the BB face/plate/area/whatever to scale then create another image layer on top in which to recreate the characters, characteristics and elements required using vector graphics required for the creation of a dry transfer?

 

I'm not sure if I could manage the VG's myself as it's so long since I looked into this but I'll either try again or see if it's economical enough to 'outsource'.  When it comes to the dry transfer part, am I to assume that the artwork is taken to a printer to handle this?  All I have is a decent multifunctional scanner/printer that handles transfer papers.  (I'm a slow learner these days, the years are taking their toll !!!)



#57 BoomboxLover48

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Posted 17 September 2015 - 09:18 PM

Amazing job! :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:  :hooray:



#58 caution

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Posted 18 September 2015 - 10:05 AM

I've not used the particular image graphics software you've mentioned, would I be correct with this (partial) over-simplified summary?:

Scan the BB face/plate/area/whatever to scale then create another image layer on top in which to recreate the characters, characteristics and elements required using vector graphics required for the creation of a dry transfer?


That's about it! Yeah, the graphics part can be tricky but I do CAD for a living so it wasn't anything for me. The transfers were made by drytransfer.com, which creates a high-quality screen that is used to paint the graphics onto transfer paper. I'm not sure if it's a laser printer or something better, but I'm guessing the latter. I might try doing this myself if I can find a place to make the screens.

#59 MyOhMy

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Posted 18 September 2015 - 11:36 AM

Many, many thanks, caution.

 

You're a STAR for all you've done and for the help & inspiration you've given others like myself. :hooray:



#60 stosoorok

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Posted 19 September 2015 - 02:46 AM

I'll be original - WOW!  :jawdrop: I was thinking earlier how to restore the aluminium trim, and there it is! Respect man!