Jump to content



Photo

Conion C100 resto


  • Please log in to reply
155 replies to this topic

#61 BoomboxLover48

BoomboxLover48
  • Boomus Fidelis
  • 5,242 posts
  • LocationChicago, IL

Posted 31 May 2015 - 09:23 AM

Great thread to watch a pro in action! 

Keep up the good work! 

Always fun to watch people doing stuff the right way with lots of patience and dedication.

:thumbsup:  :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:  :hooray:  :hooray:  :hooray:  :hooray:



#62 SLO

SLO
  • Members (SA)
  • 2,443 posts
  • LocationInland Empire, Southern California

Posted 31 May 2015 - 05:55 PM

This 1st photo looks like a scene from Breaking Bad  ;-) EXCELLENT RESULTS. Go Caution go!!!  :thumbsup: 17666086674_296f9d6b0f_o.jpg



#63 caution

caution
  • Members (SA)
  • 1,926 posts
  • LocationHillsboro, Oregon

Posted 31 May 2015 - 07:48 PM

Just call me Walter :-) haha

I'm so glad I didn't use 35%, I probably would've injured myself and ruined the case. More than once I got some on my fingers and did gave me those white skin burns.

 

My other tweeter shows up tomorrow, party time! Parts Express shipped me only one, even though it was hand-written on the invoice that they had sent two. They didn't hesitate to send out the other one. Oh and after I bend the tabs through the old holes they will drop right into the old tweeter shells! :rock:

 

18139958668_d04a9a7977_o.jpg



#64 blu_fuz

blu_fuz
  • Moderators
  • 10,503 posts
  • LocationWI

Posted 31 May 2015 - 07:52 PM

^ should sound great.

#65 caution

caution
  • Members (SA)
  • 1,926 posts
  • LocationHillsboro, Oregon

Posted 01 June 2015 - 01:42 AM

Muuuch bettah :-) I'm thinking I will do the mids too.

 

17714372204_4ecc314d5d_o.jpg

18333021792_01975d37a1_o.jpg



#66 jimmyjimmy19702010

jimmyjimmy19702010
  • Members (SA)
  • 3,559 posts
  • LocationSunny Brisbane, Australia

Posted 01 June 2015 - 03:54 AM

They look brand new! The great thing with ink is that there's no chance of the sound being slightly altered as you're not putting a layer of anything over the cone. With a new, ink filled marker, virtually no force needs to be applied to the cones' surface to transfer the colour so there's no chance of you tearing up the cone surface.

James.... :-)

#67 SLO

SLO
  • Members (SA)
  • 2,443 posts
  • LocationInland Empire, Southern California

Posted 01 June 2015 - 06:30 PM

Muuuch bettah :-) I'm thinking I will do the mids too.

 

17714372204_4ecc314d5d_o.jpg

18333021792_01975d37a1_o.jpg

 

Wow that looks so good, what a huge difference  :drool:



#68 blu_fuz

blu_fuz
  • Moderators
  • 10,503 posts
  • LocationWI

Posted 01 June 2015 - 06:35 PM

Back in black!

#69 JustCruisin

JustCruisin
  • Members (SA)
  • 3,098 posts
  • LocationMidwest, USA

Posted 01 June 2015 - 11:44 PM

They look brand new! The great thing with ink is that there's no chance of the sound being slightly altered as you're not putting a layer of anything over the cone. With a new, ink filled marker, virtually no force needs to be applied to the cones' surface to transfer the colour so there's no chance of you tearing up the cone surface.
James.... :-)

Same thing I do to mine, use the Sharpie Magnum.. It has the widest flat tip makes covering the cone quick and easy! :yes:
Even though Sharpies have a "brownish-purple hue", behind a black grille the speaker looks black. :cool:

#70 blu_fuz

blu_fuz
  • Moderators
  • 10,503 posts
  • LocationWI

Posted 02 June 2015 - 08:18 AM

I was going to try the marker on my M90 woofs, but I don't think I would get the same 'black' with the poly coated cones. No way for the marker to soak into the material.

 

 

Is there really no long term harm with the chemicals in a sharpie to deteriorate the cone?



#71 Vintage Man

Vintage Man
  • Members (SA)
  • 398 posts
  • LocationOSHAWA ONTARIO CANADA

Posted 02 June 2015 - 09:56 PM

Muuuch bettah :-) I'm thinking I will do the mids too.

17714372204_4ecc314d5d_o.jpg
18333021792_01975d37a1_o.jpg



#72 Vintage Man

Vintage Man
  • Members (SA)
  • 398 posts
  • LocationOSHAWA ONTARIO CANADA

Posted 02 June 2015 - 09:56 PM

Wow that looks so good, what a huge difference :drool:




I love the Sharpe for a quick clean up!

#73 caution

caution
  • Members (SA)
  • 1,926 posts
  • LocationHillsboro, Oregon

Posted 08 June 2015 - 09:46 PM

I'm at a crossroads and I need a push one way or the other. As I've worked on this I've avoided other C-100's for sale just because it just seems wrong to take one out of existence only for one stupid piece of trim and then part out the rest when it could've been good enough for someone else. But another one with good trim just sold, this time for a little over $300. It's too close to call anymore. I was thinking I would have new ones made to spec and sell sets to others in need but that may be a weaker market than for parting out a unit. I don't know. Without it the box looks kinda junky.

I've put far more time into this than I ever thought I would. I really want it to be done but I also really want it to look nice. It would much better reflect all of the hidden work. Question is, what is the most realistic path with this big old case? I've been sitting here for the past few days staring at it with the intention of reassembly but I can't convince myself to. I keep wondering if I'll end up changing my mind about the front and need to disassemble everything later.

The thing about it is, it's largely intact, just one small chip on a foot, but it's pretty scratched and dinged and missing trim. I bought some matching Tamiya X-11 and some Model Master and started to touch it up best I could, but I dunno. It looks okay from the spots I did but I am still left wondering if I worked out the surface problems by hand and had it painted would this look better necessarily? I'm concerned another coat of paint will end up rounding off/blurring everything and would hate to find out later that living with what I had to begin with was actually my best bet, unless paint can be removed from case plastic.



#74 blu_fuz

blu_fuz
  • Moderators
  • 10,503 posts
  • LocationWI

Posted 08 June 2015 - 09:49 PM

So you want it to stay silver? Go custom if you are feeling edgy.

#75 caution

caution
  • Members (SA)
  • 1,926 posts
  • LocationHillsboro, Oregon

Posted 08 June 2015 - 10:02 PM

Doesn't have to be exactly the same but some shade of silver, maybe that Toyota silver you used that looked sweet as hell. I thought that kittmaster was onto something when he used M90 gray, it really made the tweeter chrome stand out, but he never posted a full pic so I couldn't tell if it was an overall good look. I'm afraid if I veer too far away from silver, the trims will look too out of place.



#76 blu_fuz

blu_fuz
  • Moderators
  • 10,503 posts
  • LocationWI

Posted 08 June 2015 - 10:05 PM

If you already made the decision to paint, then there is no reason not to try a color that you really like. Worst case, you sand and repaint again.

Ive seen red C100's, black, pastel fades, and maybe a few others. Maybe try something funky like 'boat flake' something so glittery in looks deep.


You are right though that the toyota pearl silver I sprayed on that M70 was just enough flare without being able to tell it is custom.

#77 jimmyjimmy19702010

jimmyjimmy19702010
  • Members (SA)
  • 3,559 posts
  • LocationSunny Brisbane, Australia

Posted 09 June 2015 - 12:12 AM

I say build it up and then carry it around inside and outside looking at it in different lights. My prediction is that when assembled, it will better than you think. You can't beat originality.

My recent find GF-9696 has dents, scratches etc to the finish. Sure I could paint it and make it look perfect but IMHO, signs of wear adds to the history of the box - making it look like a survivor, not a box that sat unloved in it's original cardboard box in a warehouse somewhere for 30+ years!


James.... :-)

#78 blu_fuz

blu_fuz
  • Moderators
  • 10,503 posts
  • LocationWI

Posted 09 June 2015 - 05:26 AM

My fav is also original finish. But sometimes there is nothing wrong with a well done color change.

#79 caution

caution
  • Members (SA)
  • 1,926 posts
  • LocationHillsboro, Oregon

Posted 09 June 2015 - 09:38 AM

Yeah, I think doing a new silver is about as far as I'd feel comfortable going at least on this box, my gut tells me my adventures in Conion aren't over when I'm done with this one. Jimmy you make a good point, it certainly would make carrying it around less stressful!!

 

I did contact a local customs shop and they had no problem taking a look. If I could get them to do all the prep work on it, I may bite.



#80 caution

caution
  • Members (SA)
  • 1,926 posts
  • LocationHillsboro, Oregon

Posted 09 June 2015 - 01:45 PM

It will be sanded, filled and painted by Friday :-) They don't have Toyota silver but they are going to call me in when they have some samples of what they have for use on bumpers, which isn't glossy.



#81 caution

caution
  • Members (SA)
  • 1,926 posts
  • LocationHillsboro, Oregon

Posted 09 June 2015 - 01:47 PM

Thanks for the help you two, feeling so much better today. The light at the end of the tunnel is bright :-)



#82 blu_fuz

blu_fuz
  • Moderators
  • 10,503 posts
  • LocationWI

Posted 09 June 2015 - 02:27 PM

CAN'T WAIT TO SEE IT!



#83 caution

caution
  • Members (SA)
  • 1,926 posts
  • LocationHillsboro, Oregon

Posted 11 June 2015 - 07:02 PM

Been watching their facebook page. Some grille action on the hood there :-)

 

https://www.facebook...469645843197614



#84 blu_fuz

blu_fuz
  • Moderators
  • 10,503 posts
  • LocationWI

Posted 11 June 2015 - 08:01 PM

Ooooohhhhhhh snap!

#85 caution

caution
  • Members (SA)
  • 1,926 posts
  • LocationHillsboro, Oregon

Posted 11 June 2015 - 09:04 PM

Some more pics...

The mids blacked out nice too!

18718700612_84c0fe9257_o.jpg

 

The upper tape deck door had a cracked holder so I took the oppurtunity to polish and re-lube the shaft. Giggity.

18698340176_aab1f3a794_o.jpg

 

I went to replace the foam on the battery door, and as I was trying to think of what I could use, I was standing right next to a reel of foam tape that came with the air conditioner I just bought. Perfect!

18724637925_6efdd3b138_o.jpg
18538440819_69bebee5d0_o.jpg

 

I also decided to replace all of the dampening strips. I bought a couple types of felt fabric, one was 7 mils thick and the other was 11. The original strips, with the adhesive backing, is 7 mils. I tried to use the 11 mil stuff but it was too stuff to stay down with the double-sided tape.

18727062951_50e428bce2_o.jpg

18698338326_4dae531714_o.jpg

 

First I laid down a strip of double-sided tape on the table and applied the cloth. This is a temporary piece to allow clean transfer. Then I would apply a second strip of double-sided tape which would be the one to go on the chassis. This setup also prevented the fabric from veering course as I sliced it. The tape was 1/2" wide so I had to trim all strips from that down to about 0.3". The initial pieces were 6mm and 8mm but I made them all 8mm since I had the room, which gave the tape a better shot at staying down permanently. There are two more on the front part of the chassis which are 10mm wide and will do when it comes back from paint.

18538446739_f668abf302_o.jpg

 

It took a lot of lining up to get the bastards on but it all turned out the way I wanted. Did the battery cover too. I noticed it was creaking before I disassembled.

18719790512_9b399dd99b_o.jpg

18698337076_ce428cee69_o.jpg

18103972003_2a485154ba_o.jpg

18724643935_e7f34bc731_o.jpg

18719791282_a1ea37a092_o.jpg

18724645025_aa00168f58_o.jpg

18724638955_7569959cf8_o.jpg

18698329536_363a6a2f38_o.jpg

 

Finally got the heat stakes replaced with a little help from a broken M70 top plate!

18724643025_ba76af8343_o.jpg

18102010424_6be7410043_o.jpg

18724642175_d2f7dcf396_o.jpg

18698333276_a82b214e45_o.jpg

 

The cover just about fell right on it was lined up so well :rock:

18536944320_8d76e38a3c_o.jpg

 

Glued the coil back into place before sealing up...

18102007814_58bac0b8c0_o.jpg

 

Except for the transformer board, which I'm still using with the chassis to finish the VU backlight, the back is DONE!

18536861888_ceb3e9013a_o.jpg

 

And an exploded view... heh heh

18538448059_b8ef75f332_o.jpg

 

By the way big thanks to blu_fuz for a few missing rear cabinet screws, I owe you one buddy!



#86 blu_fuz

blu_fuz
  • Moderators
  • 10,503 posts
  • LocationWI

Posted 11 June 2015 - 09:23 PM

Any time bro! Glad to help your blaster get back to 100%.

#87 Cpl-Chronic

Cpl-Chronic
  • Members (SA)
  • 1,978 posts
  • LocationWindsor, Ontario, CANADA

Posted 11 June 2015 - 10:51 PM

Just call me Walter :-) haha

I'm so glad I didn't use 35%, I probably would've injured myself and ruined the case. More than once I got some on my fingers and did gave me those white skin burns.

 

My other tweeter shows up tomorrow, party time! Parts Express shipped me only one, even though it was hand-written on the invoice that they had sent two. They didn't hesitate to send out the other one. Oh and after I bend the tabs through the old holes they will drop right into the old tweeter shells! :rock:

 

18139958668_d04a9a7977_o.jpg

Those tweets will work great.  If you notice, the tweeter is inset with a curved throat....that is in essence, a 'waveguide'....the slight horn shape to the throat acts as a slight horn which will boost acoustic output by about 2-3db.   Those are perfect & yes, I forgot that I already mentioned these when I posted about 4 ohm tweeters. 

 

Those are the same exact tweeters I used for my SONY CFS-88S Speaker mod & they will not disappoint you I think...

 

Looks good Caution!! :rock:  :rock:

 

Cpl



#88 jimmyjimmy19702010

jimmyjimmy19702010
  • Members (SA)
  • 3,559 posts
  • LocationSunny Brisbane, Australia

Posted 11 June 2015 - 11:50 PM

That's coming up great! - so much intricate work involved!
I think my favourite part is your inclusion of the hula hoop - that's going to look very unique indeed! :-)


#89 JustCruisin

JustCruisin
  • Members (SA)
  • 3,098 posts
  • LocationMidwest, USA

Posted 12 June 2015 - 08:32 AM

Great job with the felt!

#90 docs

docs
  • Members (SA)
  • 1,881 posts
  • LocationUnited Kingdom

Posted 12 June 2015 - 11:35 AM

Very good thread indeed, thank you caution for taking out your time to post it all here.

Please post a pic of you hoola hooping with the C100 on your shoulder when complete, oh and keep up the superb work.