Sanyo M9990 rebelting

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Northerner

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Apr 16, 2012
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Quick question! I'm just servicing a nice Sanyo I got from a forum member and am not quite sure of the easiest way to get to the belts.

Got the chassis out...do you get the deck out from the front or move the circuit board at the back?

There doesn't seem to be a lot of room or play in the wires to ease it out...does the tuner display have to come out first?

Can someone who's done one point me the right way please

Thanks!
 

superlew

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Apr 22, 2012
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Everything inside the 9990 is tethered. It's probably the most difficult deck to access of any box, and definitely the toughest one I've done. I also did the clutch in mine, which was no joke. :bang:

Let's see if I remember correctly.

1. Once the chassis is out, unplug the pin connector for the timer circuit on the front of the main board.

2. Remove the tuning scale. There is a ground on the scale that needs to be de-soldered.

3. Remove the screws that hold the main board. Carefully work the main board out and away from the chassis. It's completely tethered, so you'll have to use some care and creativity to prop it in an upright position so that it is out of the way.

4. You can finally see the back of the deck at this point. You should have just enough access to perform the re-belt. It's helpful to have a belt hook for this. I actually use the core of a coax cable fashioned into a hook to do this. The copper is somewhat soft, so you can bend it into a shape that clears any obstructions.

The 9990 is a real PITA to service the deck, but as long as there are no other issues I don't see any reason you shouldn't get another 30 years out of a re-belt.

Or....You could just ship it to me! ;-)

Ask away if you have any questions. I'm in FL, but I will be home (MA) at some point this weekend, so I don't have access to the box for reference right now.
 

Northerner

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That's awesome, thanks! I just kept on staring at it hoping that I'd get some inspiration lol...didn't work.

Really appreciate the step by step guide, makes it a lot easier...I can cope with fiddly and being careful as long as I know it's the right way ...so thanks a lot :)
 

Alberto

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Simon, I rebelted a Sanyo M-9990 and M-9977. They are the two hardest rebelts I ever had to do. If people think Lasonics are hard to work on with all the soldered wires, they are a breeze compared to Sanyo. There is no secret method or easy way to access the tape deck, but it can be done.You will get just enough space to replace the belts
( no room for fingers ). All you need is some dental tools and a whole lot of patience. :lol:
 

Northerner

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Well I'm pretty patient and I already have the dental tools!...I'm up for a challenge so I'll probably dive in at the weekend...defeat is not an option lol :-)
 

baddboybill

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Jul 14, 2009
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I know that in the Lasonic TRC918 and my CEC you actually have to desolder short wires in order to get to deck belts. I'm sure doing this in 9990 will make it much easier :-)


Bad Bad Bill
 

baddboybill

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Yeh if its really tight I'm not averse to a bit of desoldering


Just take pics. Believe me it's better desoldering then having wires break off and not know where they go ;-)


Bad Boy Bill
 

superlew

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Apr 22, 2012
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The wires to the deck are not that bad. The problem is the wires to the main board. There are around 500 (exageration) of them all over the thing. I did have to desolder several to repair the clutch in mine. But with care, it shouldn't be necessary for a re-belt. You'll understand when you free the main board from the chassis.

Like Alberto said, Lasonics are child's play compared to the 9990.

Definitely take pictures. :yes:
 

Northerner

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Apr 16, 2012
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I always take pics of every box I work on, even simple ones...it's saved me a nightmare more than once :)

I'm gonna save this job for the weekend when hopefully I won't have a hangover!...I thought a 5 mile walk in the rain, wind and fog would clear it but it didn't lol

This is why I like boxes like the Sharps...I can strip a deck out in less than 10 minutes
 
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