I posted this thread a while back: https://boomboxery.com/forum/index.php/topic/15536-the-dead-horse-that-is-line-in/?hl=%2Bdead+%2Bhorse , and after doing so, I thought, "There's got to be a simpler, cleaner solution."
Turns out, there is... and it's quite possibly one of the simplest mods. So simple it will melt your face.
Here's what you're going to need:
Cut two lengts of wire (preferrably two different colors to distinguish L & R) about 10". I like to twist them together to keep them somewhat rigid and makes for a cleaner look inside. Solder the ends of the wires to the points pictured below. I chose these points because they were easy to solder to. Your choice of points is up to you, as long as they are within the same trace. The photos are my initial attempt to get the wire lengths just right, so you'll notice they have been spliced. I have since swapped them, using red and white, rather than red and green.
That's it for the surgery. As you can see, it's minimally invasive. Now you can put the back case on and get down to blastin'.
This mod utilizes the timer circuit to power the amp for the line-in. Lets set the timer and fire it up.
Set the Function switch to SLEEP.
Next, Set the Function switch to OFF/TAPE. Set the Auto switch to RADIO TAPE.
The amp is now powered on via the timer. The Sleep/Auto switch setting will determine how long the amp will stay powered on. This is nice when you're having a few beers by the campfire and you pass out in your chair. When you come to in a few hours, you'r batteries will be just fine. You will need to reset the timer to keep blastin' beyond 64 minutes. That takes about 0.4 seconds.
When using the mod, your line source will cancel out the tape. If you power off your device or unplug it, the tape will play normally. The deck will also record from your source normally when the timer is off.
I hope this mod gives some M9990's some more much deserved "face time."
I made a delete for the hole I made for the switch in the original mod using part of a battery cover, courtesy of Comcast. If you didn't know, you'd swear it's factory. It's the least they could do for me.
Turns out, there is... and it's quite possibly one of the simplest mods. So simple it will melt your face.
Here's what you're going to need:
Cut two lengts of wire (preferrably two different colors to distinguish L & R) about 10". I like to twist them together to keep them somewhat rigid and makes for a cleaner look inside. Solder the ends of the wires to the points pictured below. I chose these points because they were easy to solder to. Your choice of points is up to you, as long as they are within the same trace. The photos are my initial attempt to get the wire lengths just right, so you'll notice they have been spliced. I have since swapped them, using red and white, rather than red and green.
That's it for the surgery. As you can see, it's minimally invasive. Now you can put the back case on and get down to blastin'.
This mod utilizes the timer circuit to power the amp for the line-in. Lets set the timer and fire it up.
Set the Function switch to SLEEP.
Next, Set the Function switch to OFF/TAPE. Set the Auto switch to RADIO TAPE.
The amp is now powered on via the timer. The Sleep/Auto switch setting will determine how long the amp will stay powered on. This is nice when you're having a few beers by the campfire and you pass out in your chair. When you come to in a few hours, you'r batteries will be just fine. You will need to reset the timer to keep blastin' beyond 64 minutes. That takes about 0.4 seconds.
When using the mod, your line source will cancel out the tape. If you power off your device or unplug it, the tape will play normally. The deck will also record from your source normally when the timer is off.
I hope this mod gives some M9990's some more much deserved "face time."
I made a delete for the hole I made for the switch in the original mod using part of a battery cover, courtesy of Comcast. If you didn't know, you'd swear it's factory. It's the least they could do for me.
I've never been inside a Euro model, so I wouldn't start soldering in jumpers without doing some homework.
