Chemical tapedoor damage

Got today an SHARP GF-7500 for very cheap at flea.
Radio works, tape needs belts, box in very good condition.
Except the tapedoor....

Anybody must have done something with agressive chemical at it.
So the plastic is´nt clear any more.
Looking like dust at it.
Any possibility to make it clear again?
Polish?
Chemical?

Here it is:

I use toothpaste to get it clear then buff out the scratches

Did you try to disassembled that plastic cover ?
If its not printed in the back side, maybe you should replaced with some another plastic one

I have the same problem with National F-15 tapedoor

@toni: The printings are damaged and i will loose them for sure.
But i can live without them, more important is a nice look of the tapedoor.

Did you any try at the F15?

@mustang: Good idea. Also thought about handyscreen-polish.
Must try it.

The last reason will be to colour the side parts black, the middle part is not so bad damaged.

BTW , here a full pic of it.
Got it today at a small indoorflea.
Because of the damage and the nonworking tape > 3 euros.

Acrylic polish (available at most all plastic supply companies) will most surely restore that finish back to clear. Doesn't look like a chemical issue here. Looks more like someone used a brillo pad or steel wool but then again, the photo wasn't that "clear."

Ive ben thinking to try with something like this: kit for car polishing





I should to try with one piece of plastic to discovering the effect/result.

Superduper said:

Acrylic polish (available at most all plastic supply companies) will most surely restore that finish back to clear. Doesn't look like a chemical issue here. Looks more like someone used a brillo pad or steel wool but then again, the photo wasn't that "clear."

Click to expand...

Sorry, it´s now in the evening and the electrical light makes photos different looking.

But it´s sure a chemical damage.
No scratches, but this grey dust..
But when i have luck with a polish, like a face peeling cream, then it can be possible.
Like toni thought about it, but try it with my minitool from the model-railway.

DON'T DO IT. NO NO, DON'T USE A POWER TOOL.

The polish works fine. Even with chemical damage, you can still sand it smooth (if it's not 100% smooth) with 600 to 800 grit wet sandpaper. However, the acrylic is very sensitive to heat damage. With a power tool, you can get faster result but you can burn the plastic very very easily and what is going to happen is that check marks (small spider cracks) will develop, especially with rotary tools like dremel.

Ask me how I know.....

Finally, I've done many tuner glass just using a hand method and water with very good results. It's not necessary to use power tool because the plastic is very soft and you can get very fast result with just hand motion. The secret is not to rely on polish to cut heavy scratches -- you will not get good results. Instead, slowly use sandpaper: 600, then 800, then 1000, 1500, then polish.

wow a lot of work

Superduper said:

DON'T DO IT. NO NO, DON'T USE A POWER TOOL.

Click to expand...

That cracked me up SD, not even a dremel and some polish?

MasterBlaster84 said:

Superduper said:

DON'T DO IT. NO NO, DON'T USE A POWER TOOL.

Click to expand...

That cracked me up SD, not even a dremel and some polish?

Click to expand...

Again..... ASK ME HOW I KNOW.

i know you went though the tape door with the dremel right

monchito said:

i know you went though the tape door with the dremel right

Click to expand...

LOL!!!! That would leave a lasting impression.

Thanks SD for the advice.
For the polish part of procedure I just found that instead of polishing paste can be used any dentifrice (colgate) with dry 100% cotton clot.
It's effective truly

here is pics, the right side is polished vith dentrifice

True acrylic polish would make it clear as glass. Toothpaste is a little coarse but good for a pre-final polish. I see there are some lasting deeper scratches. If you went through that first with 600 grit wet paper, for like 30 seconds (hand only), you'll get rid of those scratches too.

DON'T BE TEMPTED TO USE A DREMEL

Ask me how I know! :'-(

how do you know?

Well, since you ask .

Been there, done that, and the plastic melted and left check marks. :'-( I guess you can say just use the dremel carefully but I've learned my lesson and no more rushing for me.... since that experiment, I've done many more and have removed some very deep scratches by exactly the method I said before. Start with 400 or 600 grit and progressive move to 1000 or 1500 grit, wet sanding. With patience, the results will be good without risking an irreplaceable lens or glass. At TAP Plastics, they'll probably use a power buffer but they've far more experience AND if the piece messes up, all they got to do is cut another piece. Where are ya gonna find another lens for that M90?