Help w/a Sony CFS-77 power cord hunt...

This may sound ridiculous, but I have scoured the net looking for something as simple as a replacement power cord for my recently acquired Sony CFS-77 & can't seem to get a straight answer from any search engine or parts distributor anywhere.

The service manual I got my hands on says the replacement number is 1-555-234-00 (AEP), which I assume is for the US version. [Yeah I know about assumptions] But I can't even get an idea of what the equivalent other radios would be that would share that power cord in order to scam it off of.

If any of you folks know of a reputable vendor that stocks such an animal I would be very appreciative. Otherwise, it'll be just one more thing I'll be bastardizing on this radio as it is.

I know the purists will want my hide, but the carcass was too far gone, so I'm retro fitting it with a tablet PC & a paint scheme befitting a 69 Chevelle. Luckily the radio still works. If some one needs the cassette deck parts (mechanical) let me know. Most of those were in decent shape. Including the belts. Those were also used in the CFS-99 i believe as well... But don't quote me on that.

Those Sony power cords are a pita to find for sure.
I've used a Norelco razor cord on the past.
The pug is small just like the Sony cord.
It fits fine and totally useable,but it;s coiled instead of straight.
Just an idea if you need one in a pinch.......

You know... I was sitting on my decaying old ass & thought to myself, "I have an old electric razor cord that probably fits that, but has somebody done that yet?" And wouldn't you know it, right over my morning coffee!

I was kinda thinking I might have to go that route. For a radio that size & configuration you'd think they would have made the plug one of their regular ones. It's hard enough to find the radio much less the cord. "Telle est la guerre" I guess?

Thanks for the heads up. We'll see if some other folks have some clues as well. I appreciate the help though.

Oh My Lord,

I send you a PM. That should help!



Check the Sony Playstation cord and see it that fits.

hey,
I have this problem with the CFS-99, no cord. I do have a philips power cord for razors tho, and it has the correct ratings, but it doesn't work ? There is a switch that needs to be touched in the power jack, I can do that by putting a small metal object there so it should activate AC power instead of batteries, but I get no power ?

Peace

Ok now the box isn't working on batteries either . It turns on and the music search number comes on but there isn't any sound, there was before but it stopped suddenly ? It was a US CFS-99 but I used a europe philips power cord, however the cord says: input 100-240V, output 15V 5.4W which is exactly what I want, and I saw the US power cords for shavers also have the same specifications ? What could have happened ? Did I mess up ?

Edit: let me add there was no "pop" or smoke when plugged in with the philips cord at first, just nothing happened.

Peace

From what I'm seeing in the manual, the TX is a 250VAC one on these which, like the SMPS supplies found in more modern gear, uses a Darlington transistor as the basis of a regulator so that it would provide the same output regardless of the mains "voltage", so you won't have killed it that way. Is the shaver a DC one? The mains connectors on the DC shaver sockets have a slightly larger I/D on the live pole than on the neutral so that they can't be connected the wrong way. If you used that lead on this device, whose mains input is for AC only, then that larger clincher will fail to make contact and it'll only have one pole connected..
Try it with a figure 8 and fill the small triangular notch with something so that the plug will still lift the battery isolating latch, that works for the AC mains input on Sony of a certain age.

It's also possible that you forced the latch when you shoved something there shouldn't have been into there, which would explain why there's now nothing on battery either. I doubt you've killed it stone dead either way, look for a sprung contact like that latch, which would have been forced a bit more, then try and return it.

Beosystem do you have any idea ?
I read it wrong, it says on the CFS-99 it needs 100V, but I put in 15V I believe, never heard of boxes breaking by putting in less than required voltage ? feel free to help but I know I've probably been an idiot somehow so no need to state that.

Peace

SpaceLobster said:

Beosystem do you have any idea ?
I read it wrong, it says on the CFS-99 it needs 100V, but I put in 15V I believe, never heard of boxes breaking by putting in less than required voltage ? feel free to help but I know I've probably been an idiot somehow so no need to state that.

Peace

Click to expand...

You're not an idiot and this is confusing, but probably not terminal. Though by giving it a 15V DC supply where should be AC, this could damage the rectifier pack if the mains supply in the radio is a switch mode one and not a transformer as the manual I looked at says the one found in the UK Sonys will be. If it's a transformer then you won't have done that any harm, since the rectifier must be on the secondary side of the TX or - put it another way - if you did, then you would have smelt the lacquer burning from the primary winding as the dc being applied to it would heat it up to an extent without any usable field being formed in the secondary, so causing more energy to become heat.
But that's me thinking aloud. Really, we need to know what device did you use to provide that 15V to the box when you tried it on the mains?

ok I'll tell the whole story:
I want to power my US sony CFS-99 by mains. I don't have a sony cable that fits though and I look up and find this thread for example. They keep mentioning philips Norelco power cords, I realise I have a philips power cord that looks exactly like in the pictures of sony cords. I read on it and it says AC/DC adaptor -input: 100-240V AC 50/60Hz 7.5W -output: 15V DC 5.4W. So read on the back of the CFS-99 and it says 15V DC, and I think "ok that's great this should work then". But I realise much later that below it says AC: 100 V 24W 50/60 Hz. But the DC plug is just a small round hole while the AC plug fits my philips cord ? these people powering their CFS-99 by the norelco cord is doing something right that I'm not ?

So its not really working on batteries, it makes some static noise, music search system light come on, there is a slight "turn on sound" when started on batteries.
I looked up the Norelco cord from the US and they have the same specifications as mine did. Since there was no smoke or "pop" I don't think I blew it, but I still can't figure out what happened.

Peace

Sorry I missed your fist reply, I saw you replied but it showed up as only "." a dot. well I though you were saying I was just an idiot and this was obvious hence why I required not to be called an idiot. sorry about that.
So the normal europe 8-plugs don't fit at all. Is the trick to use an old norelco cord that puts out AC ?

Peace

SpaceLobster said:

Sorry I missed your fist reply, I saw you replied but it showed up as only "." a dot. well I though you were saying I was just an idiot and this was obvious hence why I required not to be called an idiot. sorry about that.
So the normal europe 8-plugs don't fit at all. Is the trick to use an old norelco cord that puts out AC ?

Peace

Click to expand...

I see! No, I edited that post as I accidentally made a remark that could have been misinterpreted by someone else.

So, could it be that you have connected the 15V DC input the wrong way? Is the Philips adapter that you used of the same polarity as the socket on the Sony was intended to use, in other words; which of the illustrations below matches the polarity of the Philips connector and which matches the DC socket on your Sony? If the answer is the same in both cases, then this should be fine, if one has a different centre pin polarity and no means of altering this by turning part of the plug the other way, then it's possible that you may have done some form of minor damage (no bang, no smoke = minor damage )

So there'll be some symbols like these on both the DC input of the Sony and the label on the Philips power supply:



Are both devices showing the - and the + in the same position as each other?

on the box it doesn't say anything like that on the AC, but the DC one is the bottom one "negative".
The philips cord doesn't have one like that, but it has a small illustration that looks like the first one "positive".
I think I tried both days though, but maybe by trying it the wrong way first I did some harm and then it wouldn't have worked in the second way ? I had no idea there is a difference to how you turn it ! there is none for 8-plugs right ? This plug looks like a B, not an 8 btw.
What kind of damage could there be ? I can open it and tell you about the transformer type etc.
Thank you for your help so far ! And could I try it the right way and it might work still ?

Peace

OK, so from what you've said so far, you may have tried a DC power supply connected the wrong way round. Figure 8 mains leads aren't polarity sensitive as they're only for use with "double insulated" equipment where the chassis isn't connected to the mains at all and the input to their transformer can be connected either way since AC, once it has been rectified inside the device, isn't affected by the orientation of the mains lead. In most cases, the orientation of the AC inputs that have a flat side and a notched side to their plug aren't polarity sensitive either, the only reason their plugs are asymmetrical like that is that this way, the blue and the brown at the wall socket are kept in the right order though as suggested in my comment about the polarity of the fig.8, that isn't critical.

So if you did switch the box on with the 15VDC input reversed, then it is possible that you could have caused a fuse to fail, though as this is (assumption being made from the mention of this being a 100V box in terms of its mains requirement) a Japanese market item, they may not share the UK's legal requirement for both AC and DC options in a portable device to be protected by a fuse.
If there's no means of built in polarity reversal protection in the Sony, then there may be some damage to some of its components, the audio output being where this sort of thing usually manifests itself first as that's where the most current is used at the point you switch it on.
So my first move would be to double check the input polarity from your Philips DC power supply device and, making sure that you have both the radio and the supply set the same way, try powering it up again, maybe with the back open so that you instantly get to know if anything is getting too hot by the smell. At this point, you may just have got away with it, if it simply doesn't do anything, then have a look around inside the radio for any signs of scorched boards by electrolytic capacitors, chips, transistors and diodes.
Meanwhile, I'll cross my fingers for luck as there's sadly nothing else I can do at 400 miles away.

The vast majority of boomboxes would have a negative centre pin on the DC input. Reverse polarity can affect different devices in different ways.

I've got a vintage 1972 Brother calculator that runs on 7.5v DC. It sat switched on (with no function) all day once with power running through it with a plug supplying the power with the polarity around the wrong way. I switched it around the right way (detachable end plug) that night and it has operated fine ever since.

My little Lepai amps that run on 12v DC do not have reverse polarity protection - one flash and you'll kill them!

Good luck with your Sony - hopefully it's a fuse!

James....

I tried it with the cable turned both ways and back open, but nothing still.
It does turn on on batteries, the speakers make a very silent white noise, the music search numbers light up and there is a "click" when you change function. Also it suddenly started making a loud clicking noise from the speakers for a few seconds before I turned it off.
Here is a picture of the inside, where could a potential fuse be located ? how do I change it ? I don't think there is any major damage as there is no smoke, no noticable scorched parts and no "pop" and I never had in plugged in on the philips cord for more than 5-10 seconds at a time.









Peace

So the only sound was a bit of hash then the clicking noise? This suggests (for one thing) that all is not well with the audio board. Check the audio output devices (A brace in the UK spec diagram but there is a single one driving both channels in the supplement for European spec versions), what it doesn't say is whither that's a change in the production line or an alternative for the other markets.

Can you take a picture to show the audio board please? Look for the biggest heatsink and ideally - if you can get in about with a camera - take a few macro shots showing these: The identification on the chips, numbers, any of that, the area where they make contact with the heatsink, a macro of the edges where the putty is visible would be good and also, the board immediately around the leadouts from thae chips.
That isn't sure to show up any definitive signs of overheating and there are a couple of thermal cutouts rather than wire fuses so a few more images tracing the route of the supply rail up to the audio board should come by these, which aren't shewn in detail and I can't find the JDM version anywhere, not even at the UKVR manual library or HFE. If nobody can find a diagram then you'll need to take the box to someone who can trace it through on the bench and work from there. If you do see any sign of heat having caused problems around there, it would be worth trying different chips in thae locations to establish for certain whether you've then found the problem.

There may still be a really good light current engineer in Isleworth, on the way out toward Hounslow. It's years since I had any contact with them but one of my students worked there about 12 years ago and if they still take on repairs then it would be worth the cost of the tube, bus or cab from your side of London to get the box examined by them. The Thompson Local or Yellow Pages for the area should tell you whither they're still trading.

There is constant low-volume white noise, but for a few seconds there was a loud clicking noise until I turned it off. Just after I put in the philips cable I tried on batteries and it worked good, sound from Line in was working but it slowly died out.
I took some pictures but I'm not sure what all of those terms mean. I've been looking for a repair shop in London or near here where I live in Cantebury.
This is starting to go beyond my skills.















Peace

my cfs-77 came with a Norelco shaver power cord it has the small pins probably can find them on ebay I belive its from the older shaver and they are coiled