hitachi 8600 recap

saxonman · Oct 22, 2011

I have just recapped my 8600 well almost done the all the boards bar the tuner board! it's sounding soooo loud now it's just much better! I have the cap numbers just incase someone does the same thing! this is without the tuner board but everything else i know it can be a pain if you are missing one value in the middle of a job!!!
2200uf 25v x2
1000uf 16v
1000uf 16v x3
470uf 16v x3
470uf 10v
330uf 25v
220uf 10v x2
100uf 10v x9
100uf 25v x2
100uf 16v x3
47uf 10v x6
10uf 16v x13
4.7uf 50v x10
3.3 50v x29
2.2 50v x2
1uf 50v x8
0.47 50v x2
0.33 50v x4
0.22 50v x4
0.1uf 50v x6

baddboybill · Oct 22, 2011

That I so great :thumbsup:

So how long did this take you :hmmm:

ClaretBadger · Oct 22, 2011

i'm IN

I want to do mine

jimmyjimmy19702010 · Dec 22, 2012

I've just recapped the main board and power supply of my Hitachi TRK-9140E too and I can attest it was definately worth the effort! The sound is stronger with crisper highs and solid lows. I can leave the bass knob in the flat setting now and still get strong bass. :yes:

I also reflowed around 15 suspect solder joints including a few of the 5 DIN joints and guess what, I've got line in now!!!! :breakdance:

I can recommend a recap for any box you've got that's in good condition, works OK but just doesn't seem to sound as good as it should!! Particularly the older late 70s units. Just remember to use high quality caps!! :yes:

James...

baddboybill · Dec 22, 2012

So I have question when you guys are recapping do you do one at a time and replace or do you remove them all first then replace :hmmm:

I've wanted to do this to a couple of mine as well :-)

Superduper · Dec 22, 2012

baddboybill said:
So I have question when you guys are recapping do you do one at a time and replace or do you remove them all first then replace I've wanted to do this to a couple of mine as well

Do one at a time. You are almost guaranteed to mess up if you do it 'en mass. Also, since we are talking basically electrolytics... do take note of the polarity and DO NOT trust the board markings. They can sometimes be mislabeled. Also, the markings is often nothing more than a printed ring around the neg pin, which was printed before drilling. It's not uncommon to have the drilled hole be offset, making it hard or impossible to identify polarity afterwards if you remove and don't take note. If you do, then you are guaranteed to spend the next 20 minutes looking at the schematic diagram to decipher the polarity by tracing and comparing the adjacent components. I do one at a time and after your 80th or 90th cap, it's easy to forget in the moments after removing it what the orientation was when it was installed.

Tip: Before starting a recap, use a red sharpie and mark ALL the electrolytic caps. As you work, you will know at a glance which was done and which needs to be done. Also, when I mark the caps, I mark them all on the same side. That way if I forget the polarity of a particular cap and I want to refer to the old one, I just need to note the orientation of the mark of the old one and I'll know which pin went into which hole.

baddboybill · Dec 22, 2012

Thanks Norm for info it does sound like that will simplify things ;-)

BoomboxLover48 · Dec 22, 2012

Superduper said:
baddboybill said:

So I have question when you guys are recapping do you do one at a time and replace or do you remove them all first then replace I've wanted to do this to a couple of mine as well

Click to expand...

Do one at a time. You are almost guaranteed to mess up if you do it 'en mass. Also, since we are talking basically electrolytics... do take note of the polarity and DO NOT trust the board markings. They can sometimes be mislabeled. Also, the markings is often nothing more than a printed ring around the neg pin, which was printed before drilling. It's not uncommon to have the drilled hole be offset, making it hard or impossible to identify polarity afterwards if you remove and don't take note. If you do, then you are guaranteed to spend the next 20 minutes looking at the schematic diagram to decipher the polarity by tracing and comparing the adjacent components. I do one at a time and after your 80th or 90th cap, it's easy to forget in the moments after removing it what the orientation was when it was installed.

Tip: Before starting a recap, use a red sharpie and mark ALL the electrolytic caps. As you work, you will know at a glance which was done and which needs to be done. Also, when I mark the caps, I mark them all on the same side. That way if I forget the polarity of a particular cap and I want to refer to the old one, I just need to note the orientation of the mark of the old one and I'll know which pin went into which hole.

Great information! :yes:

I just wanted to add my 5 cents.

As you know the speaker caps are bipolar ones, it's different than the polar electrolytic caps. :yes:

I've done complete recapping on several units. I have mostly done tube radios like German made SABA and receivers like Marantz..

Norm, What brand you prefer for buying electrolytic caps? There are good, better and best types out there. For a little price difference one can buy the best ones.

wills15 · Dec 22, 2012

jimmyjimmy19702010 said:
I've just recapped the main board and power supply of my Hitachi TRK-9140E too and I can attest it was definately worth the effort! The sound is stronger with crisper highs and solid lows. I can leave the bass knob in the flat setting now and still get strong bass.

James...

I've got one of those in the shed I need to get started on too. Are they loud or really loud when working properly?

I just recapped my 3D80, and now it can play at full volume without distortion.

Superduper · Dec 23, 2012

BoomboxLover48 said:
Norm, What brand you prefer for buying electrolytic caps? There are good, better and best types out there. For a little price difference one can buy the best ones.

Panasonic FC are decent caps. Most of the larger ones are probably not critical since they are usually filter or reserve caps to stiffen the supply rails. For myself, I like to use Nichicon gold Audio grade electrolytics. I'm not sure or necessary agree about little price difference however..... some of the caps I buy can cost 10x's the cost of cheaper generics. In the audio signal path, I use exclusively the audio grade electrolytics. Usually, they are the smaller ones anyhow but keep in mind that some amps like the Hitachi HA1392 will use 1000uf electrolytics in the outputs. You can save some money by using only audio grade caps in the audio-signal path and cheaper generics for the power supply, the bypass caps, filter or reserve caps. But that would entail keeping parallel grades of stock of similar values. So for me, I simply keep a full size complement of higher-voltage value audio grade caps. It's much more expensive to keep an array of stock of only the higher grade caps, but makes for a simpler inventory complement and less hassle. The only time this has been an issue is when the voltage value I stock results in a physically larger cap than would fit in a location specifying lower voltage cap.

Eric · Dec 23, 2012

Where do you guys by your caps? I assume your buying in bulk? Thought about doing this but have not made the effort to purchase that many caps at once.......how much would a typical bulk order cost?

BoomboxLover48 · Dec 23, 2012

Superduper said:
BoomboxLover48 said:

Norm, What brand you prefer for buying electrolytic caps? There are good, better and best types out there. For a little price difference one can buy the best ones.

Click to expand...

Panasonic FC are decent caps. Most of the larger ones are probably not critical since they are usually filter or reserve caps to stiffen the supply rails. For myself, I like to use Nichicon gold Audio grade electrolytics. I'm not sure or necessary agree about little price difference however..... some of the caps I buy can cost 10x's the cost of cheaper generics. In the audio signal path, I use exclusively the audio grade electrolytics. Usually, they are the smaller ones anyhow but keep in mind that some amps like the Hitachi HA1392 will use 1000uf electrolytics in the outputs. You can save some money by using only audio grade caps in the audio-signal path and cheaper generics for the power supply, the bypass caps, filter or reserve caps. But that would entail keeping parallel grades of stock of similar values. So for me, I simply keep a full size complement of higher-voltage value audio grade caps. It's much more expensive to keep an array of stock of only the higher grade caps, but makes for a simpler inventory complement and less hassle. The only time this has been an issue is when the voltage value I stock results in a physically larger cap than would fit in a location specifying lower voltage cap.

Excellent information! :yes:

Thank you Norm! :yes:

baddboybill · Dec 23, 2012

The red mark on old caps is awesome idea too Norm. That has been one of the reasons I never tried to recap before is in my old age I would forget which I already replaced with new ones. :lol:

BoomboxLover48 · Dec 23, 2012

Eric said:
Where do you guys by your caps? I assume your buying in bulk? Thought about doing this but have not made the effort to purchase that many caps at once.......how much would a typical bulk order cost?

I have an engineer friend from UK who helped with all the directions and where to buy caps and all. That my friend is a retired engineer of Philips. He is very humble and knows a lot! Amazing induvidual! :yes:

I bought most of the large ones from Digikey and lots from Justradios. You can call them ask for the details. I love the Digikey service and customer help! Just Super! The customer assistance technicians do a fantastic job.

http://www.justradios.com/capacitors.html
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch ... capacitors

Our other members will know better places to buy them cheap.

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hitachi 8600 recap

saxonman

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