Sanyo M9990 Help!

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thebeardedlady

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Jun 28, 2011
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Hi,

Iv decided to take apart, hopefully fix and clean my sanyo after its been sat on a shelf for weeks gathering more dust! Im still new to this so need a little help. Here are the problems with it;

Record button does not stay down when pressed,

Tape Player not working (inside i can see that the bands etc are not right, does anyone know how it should be set up?)

No noise from the tuner at all. (the slider moves along but it does not pick up anything/the lights dont work)

How do i get it apart to look at all this stuff? I have taken off the back cover but i can not seem to disconnect all the circuits to get at the tape deck.

Any help would be much appreciated!!
 

thebeardedlady

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Update.

I have got it totally apart so now the deep clean can begin! Anyone know how to get the chrome (and fragile!) dust caps all clean and shiny, they seem really stained?!
 

baddboybill

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Jul 14, 2009
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thebeardedlady said:
Update.

I have got it totally apart so now the deep clean can begin! Anyone know how to get the chrome (and fragile!) dust caps all clean and shiny, they seem really stained?!
spray a small amount of glass cleaner on soft paper towels and wipe down. For stubborn rust you may have to use a scouring pad but use gently and try not to get speakers wet :-D
 

Superduper

Member (SA)
thebeardedlady said:
Hi,
Record button does not stay down when pressed,

Tape Player not working (inside i can see that the bands etc are not right, does anyone know how it should be set up?)

No noise from the tuner at all. (the slider moves along but it does not pick up anything/the lights dont work)

How do i get it apart to look at all this stuff? I have taken off the back cover but i can not seem to disconnect all the circuits to get at the tape deck.
Once you've removed the chassis, the tape deck is best removed from the front side of the chassis. Be careful. The tuner dial needs to be removed and 1-wire needs to be desoldered on the tuner dial backing plate. The deck can't be removed cleanly so it will be sorta tethered while it's being rebelted. Push a wash cloth underneath it when you are working to prevent damaging anything. A belt hooking tool helps a lot here with this deck since there is a large 5.4" large square belt underneath the flywheel that is very hard to install without.

The no noise from tuner thing is disturbing. Sanyo's are known for dead tuners. Usually it's one band. To be dead on both is bad. But hopefully it's just a power issue that can be remedied by a proper cleaning of the function switches.

Record button not staying down is probably due to a linkage issue: maybe something bent, or spring missing, or gummed up parts. Clean everything good with isopropyl and re-evaluate. DO NOT put grease over everything. Only certain parts of the mechanism needs grease. Anything light or intending to operate with little pressure would be affected by grease.

Good luck.
 

thebeardedlady

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Thanks for the info so far guys, i'l crack on with it somemore and keep you updated. I'l post some pictures as well for you all to see.
 

thebeardedlady

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Well I have got a bit further now:

Mostly finished cleaning,
Speakers re-darkened,
Speaker Grills Resprayed,
Record button fixed,
clock working,

Things still left to do:

Belts still to be done,
Tuner still needs work...

The tuner sometimes works and the lights come on then it seems to drop signal, it never keeps the signal for very long...also when its not working there is no static noise when tuning...its just totally dead! Any ideas fellow boomers?
 

jaetee

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May 5, 2009
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thebeardedlady said:
Well I have got a bit further now:

Mostly finished cleaning,
Speakers re-darkened,
Speaker Grills Resprayed,
Record button fixed,
clock working,

Things still left to do:

Belts still to be done,
Tuner still needs work...

The tuner sometimes works and the lights come on then it seems to drop signal, it never keeps the signal for very long...also when its not working there is no static noise when tuning...its just totally dead! Any ideas fellow boomers?
Congrats for taking this job on. The M9990 will reward you with great sound when you are done. I have one that is in really good shape, but the motor burned out on me.

Could you do me a huge favor, since yours is apart...? I need the part #'s and words on your tape drive motor? That would spare me disassembling mine to get that info. :)

Did you take pics along the way to help you with disassembly?

G'luck!

JT
 

thebeardedlady

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I did yeah, took plenty of pictures so I could get it all back together again!

Its closed back up again but need to open it up again because its still not working so if you need anything else then let me know. Heres a picture of the motor, is this the numbers your after?





I think my motors kaput as well, cant get the tape deck working, belts seem OK but nothing is moving...Where are you getting a new motor from?
 

jaetee

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May 5, 2009
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thebeardedlady said:
I did yeah, took plenty of pictures so I could get it all back together again!

Its closed back up again but need to open it up again because its still not working so if you need anything else then let me know. Heres a picture of the motor, is this the numbers your after?



[ Image ]

I think my motors kaput as well, cant get the tape deck working, belts seem OK but nothing is moving...Where are you getting a new motor from?

Yes, thanks!!!! Not sure where I'm going to score that puppy... but with the numbers and access to a rather resourceful technician, I'll make sure to order an extra for you if he says he can get it.
 

thebeardedlady

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Jun 28, 2011
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jaetee said:
thebeardedlady said:
I did yeah, took plenty of pictures so I could get it all back together again!

Its closed back up again but need to open it up again because its still not working so if you need anything else then let me know. Heres a picture of the motor, is this the numbers your after?



[ Image ]

I think my motors kaput as well, cant get the tape deck working, belts seem OK but nothing is moving...Where are you getting a new motor from?

Yes, thanks!!!! Not sure where I'm going to score that puppy... but with the numbers and access to a rather resourceful technician, I'll make sure to order an extra for you if he says he can get it.

Just done a little more research on motors and I dont think those numbers are the correct ones for getting a new motor. The numbers dont show the voltage or direction! As far as I can remember there are no other numbers on the motor but I will be opening her up today again so I will have a look!
 

thebeardedlady

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Jun 28, 2011
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Ahoy.

The tuner on my sanyo seems to be totally dead. It used to work and then it went through a phase of working for a while then going dead and then when you flicked the switch back and forth it would work again but now its not working at all! It does not work on FM, AM, MW or LW anymore but if you turn the volume right up there is a slight static hum...other than that nothing! The FM and stereo lights also do not work anymore.

Can this be fixed at all or is this the end for the old box... :'-(

It currently does not have an antenna but it worked before fine without one.
 

jaetee

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May 5, 2009
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thebeardedlady said:
Ahoy.

The tuner on my sanyo seems to be totally dead. It used to work and then it went through a phase of working for a while then going dead and then when you flicked the switch back and forth it would work again but now its not working at all! It does not work on FM, AM, MW or LW anymore but if you turn the volume right up there is a slight static hum...other than that nothing! The FM and stereo lights also do not work anymore.

Can this be fixed at all or is this the end for the old box... :'-(

It currently does not have an antenna but it worked before fine without one.
Could be dirty input selector switch, or dirty contacts for AM/FM.... Clean them up and work them back and forth a bunch. Maybe you'll get lucky....

JT
 

monchito

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May 5, 2009
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sometimes the switches can go bad ,,remember over time they can get heavliy oxidized or pitted badly probably from that section losing voltage for the radio board ,, if cleaning did not work more than likely u will have to check voltage to the radio section thats basicly the next step i would take :-) :-)
 

Superduper

Member (SA)
If you flicked the switch before and it worked on/off, that's a 90% confirmation that oxidation of the switch is contributing, so like Ramon said, continue cleaning.

As for the motor -- before you go further on this, why don't you confirm that your motor is dead? Just because it doesn't work doesn't necessarily mean it's dead. Check the motor directly with a 9v battery (following correct polarity) by jumping it and see if there's life. If there is, you need to look further because the problem lies elsewhere. Unlike soft touch controlled decks which continues to power a motor when belts go, manual keyed decks will shut off the deck when the key is not depressed. Obviously, when belts fail, there is no reason to keep the cassette keys depressed except for trying to monitor the line-in circuit. The point is that motor failures are more common in solenoid soft touch controlled decks than with manual keyed decks.
 

thebeardedlady

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Jun 28, 2011
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Thanks Norm, I will try all these things when I get home in about 2 weeks.

Excuse my ignorance... :-P but I do have a couple of questions...

What is the difference between soft touch and manual keys? Im 99% sure but just to clarify.

How do I know I have the correct polarity? Is it indicated on the motor or at some point on the wires path, etc?

Thanks.
 

Superduper

Member (SA)
The polarity is important because some motors have internal speed controls and reversing polarity can sometimes damage that circuitry. Normally, the polarity is indicated either on the motor solder pads, or via wire color. Red is typically positive and black is typically negative. If neither is intuitive, then you can usually tell by following the wires and the resulting solder traces. Ground paths usually services multiple components and have large traces, sometimes even islands.

If power is not getting to the motor, replacing it will obviously have no effect.

Switch cleaning is most effective by injecting into the switches directly. If you are spraying through the front, it's not usually effective and sometimes introduces other issues from solvent getting into places that you don't want.
 

monchito

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May 5, 2009
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Superduper said:
The polarity is important because some motors have internal speed controls and reversing polarity can sometimes damage that circuitry. Normally, the polarity is indicated either on the motor solder pads, or via wire color. Red is typically positive and black is typically negative. If neither is intuitive, then you can usually tell by following the wires and the resulting solder traces. Ground paths usually services multiple components and have large traces, sometimes even islands.

If power is not getting to the motor, replacing it will obviously have no effect.

Switch cleaning is most effective by injecting into the switches directly. If you are spraying through the front, it's not usually effective and sometimes introduces other issues from solvent getting into places that you don't want :w00t: :w00t: :agree: :agree: :agree: .
 
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